[edited] Spin on oil filter vs retrofitting OEM filter housing on Series 1

[tinworm]

The deflector disc is pressed on - but they can become loose after 60 years. You can panel beat the edge around the centre boss to reduce the bore slightly -until it fits tightly on. The spring etc works as mentioned to hold the filter against the disc. The system will allow the filter to lift off its seat (and leak full oil flow by) if the filter is not serviced and gets clogged - a fail safe arrangement. Other jaguars of the period used all the same parts on a different housing - so its worthwhile buying a mk10/mk2/420 one if you want spare parts. The ebay link selling a centre bolt is not e-type - or any other jag - it should have a formed flange on the end which is part of the bolt. The 3.8 bolt is longer with a coarse thread than the shorter fine threaded 4.2 version.

hope this helps
Barrie

[ralphr1780]

Serge, congrats for reaching a good fit of the canister ultimately. I feel your painful experience because I lived the same.
A slight difference though: the thin seal provided with the filter was too thin, so when tightening the canister edge simply twisted it and I got 3 liters of oil on the garage floor.
The thick seal was too thick to fit in the groove, so had to patiently sand it down by 0.3mm to get it to fit.
I also welded a washer to the long bolt and doubled the felt washer. Not one drop of oil leaked since.

[MonAndrew77]

Greetings E-Type Buddies,

I've read through all of this and please forgive my trepidation regarding the original oil filter canister.... Would some kind soul be willing to confirm that I have the requisite parts to reassemble my canister utilizing the JLM9544 filter element? There were several "homemade" parts inside when I disassembled it for the first time. I've ordered what I think I need from SNGB. Is this the best filter element to use? My car is a 1964 3.8 S-I OTS. Many many thanks.....

Andrew

[Mich7920]

Hi,
Missing. I'll forget the washers you have.
You must used the thicker seal. With a knife, "cut" or " break" the interior angle of the seal, oil it, and it will fit more easialy into the grove. You'll must to push hard anyway.
Don't tighten the canister just like that, you must centerlised it properly when you arrive in contact with the seal.


Mich

[CoolCat]

Ok but don't take it too seriously because 1" UNF has 14 tpi, not 12 as they say.

Regards

I only want to get involved here to this extent: 1"-12 UNF is correct. This is the odd size that Jaguar used for their oil filters from the S3 XJ6 to the eight cylinder motors.

[paydase]

Today, cranked the engine after a month stored in garage.
Was surprised to see again a leak underneath making a small puddle after a while.
Stopped the engine and checked again the torqueing of the filter bolt: surprisingly, it appeared light, as if the seal on the filter housing had flattened...
Retorqued the bolt, and happy to see that the leak disappeared!

[edriver]

Dear fellow forum members,

I am still confused as to which parts go into my S1 3.8 Oil Cleaner.
Jan (post#19) shows a picture of a clamping plate that closes centre hole of the filter on the engine block side.
Andrew (post#43) does not show a clamping plate, but only the pressure plate. And that's what I found in my 3.8 FHC too.
Mich (post#44) shows the drawing from the 4.2 parts catalogue with pressure and clamping (item 12) plates. The parts catalogue for the 3.8 does not include the clamping plate.

I confirm that my bolt has an UNC thread (⅜-16). I do think that I need a clamping plate, or the filter could be bypassed by the oil. The usual sources do not supply the S1 4.2 clamping plate, but admittedly I have not checked all of them.

I might send a message directly to Andrew, because I hope his OTS is running again.

Regards,
Klaus

[mgcjag]

Hi Klaus....the 3.8 as far as im aware should still have a round plate in the filter houseing for the bottom of the element to sit against.....then another round plate at the other end.....here is a 3.8 houseing...Steve

[edriver]

Thank-you, Steve, for your quick reply.
Your picture looks like the one taken by Jan in post #19. Thanks for the confirmation! Without this plate, I would not even need a filter element
Now I need only the part number and/or a chat with "the usuals". There is still enough time before spring-roll-out.
Regards,
Klaus

[BRB]

Hi Klaus, The disk in my filter housing didn't fit tightly at all, but I put it back in nevertheless. Next time I'll open it up again, I try to do the trick Barrie suggested in post #41 and panel beat a bit around the centre opening to make it fit tightly.
Good luck.

[CJB]

Hi,
I am attempting to do the same thing, revert back to the OEM 3.8 housing that I purchased on eBay. I found that it is missing the same washer, #6160, that is not available as far as I can tell. My question is about the spring clip shown in post #34. I cannot figure out where exactly that goes in the assembly. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Chris
1962 FHC

[lopena]

Chris:

The little spring clip is the last thing you install on the long threaded rod after you’ve reassembled the filter assembly. It is there simply to hold everything in place as you maneuver the canister down to the filter-head.

Alan
N.J.

[CJB]

Thank you Alan!
Chris

[paydase]

Hi Klaus....the 3.8 as far as im aware should still have a round plate in the filter houseing for the bottom of the element to sit against.....then another round plate at the other end.....here is a 3.8 houseing...Steve

Hi Steve,
I am confused by your statement and picture.
From the two drawings shown in my post #39, relating to the difference in oil filter assemblies between the 3.8 and 4.2 , I thought that there was no round plate in the 3.8 filter housing bottom... While there is one in the 4.2, an improvement apparently.
The filter provided by SNGB however has two kind of round metal plates on its both ends, unlike the filter element drawing, that would play a similar role to the plate you show.
From memory, I don't recall having seen and used such a plate when reassembling my 3.8 filter housing. Is that wrong?

[mgcjag]

Hi Serg......the original filters are as shown in the service manual and in the photos in previous posts....they do not ends so its just a tube of folded filter medium...so will need plates of some sort both ends......replacement parts come in many types......typically with a metal end but have a rubber/gasket type seal...which needs to mate to a plate..Steve

[paydase]

Hi Steve,
Thx for your feedback and useful remarks.

Indeed the original folded filter elements (as per the manual) don't have "plates" on their ends, but the ones sold by e.g. SNGB do end with some sort of metallic plates.

It seems to me that such metal plate ending on the bottom part of the filter mates fairly well to the thin slightly protruding seal that is inserted in the groove of the filter housing, hence separating the external and internal parts of the filter element.
This fortunately forces the oil flow coming from the internal part of the housing throw the filter wall to return to the outside part (or inversely, I don't know), because of the other filter end closed by the upper metal plate.

At least, this is how I understood the fitting and functioning of the filter assembly...

[mgcjag]

Hi Serge....not quite sure on your thinking. ....as far as im aware irrespective of what filter element you use you need a metal plate at the houseing end and also at the top end to sandwich the filter elememt.......the large o ring seal is just for the canister cover......if your 3.8 dosnt have a plate in the houseing you should investigate.....Steve

[tinworm]

Lack of the plate in question will cause a filter bypass situation. As I say in my old post above - the filter is sandwiched between the plates , one fixed to the casting and one held in place by a spring. If the filter is left to clog up the oil pressure forces the spring retained plate away and allows (dirty) oil to flow on to the bearings - which is slightly better than no oil flow at all . All the filters I have seen have a seal both ends to seat onto the plates.
A replacement plate can be found from any of the filter blocks from'60's Jags.

hope this helps
Barrie

[paydase]

Thanks to your valuable comments.
I have been mislead by the factory fit drawings of the 3.8 and 4.2 assemblies respectively.
On the 4.2, there is indeed a metal plate, piece number 12:

factory fit 4.2.jpg (62.03 KiB) Viewed 10657 times

On the 3.8 drawing however, there is no plate between the filter element number 10 and the filter housing number 12 (the ring number 11 being here, as correctly outlined by Steve, to seal the canister cover) :

factory fit 3.8.jpg (57.64 KiB) Viewed 10657 times

Not having that metal plate, I may have wrongfully mounted my filter assembly and will have to source a plate for correctly reassembling.

[tinworm]

Hello Serge I see your mistake. The reason is the plate on the 3.8 filter block was not removeable and was pressed onto the alloy casting - so it was not offered as a separate part.
It must be fitted for your filter to work as intended.

Barrie