Series 3 E Type V12 Overheating Fix(es)

[delsiefrick]

Series 3 E Type V 12 overheating had become a chronic problem even when properly tuned and sorted out = until we did the following:

Replaced the factory original radiator core with an aluminum radiator from Wizard Cooling. Radiator shop will do an inspection on the original core.
Replaced the original fans with new higher volume electric fans (retaining the original shroud)
Sealed the top of the shroud across the bonnet - blocking the bypasses to the original air intake snorkels (raising the air pressure forward of the radiator a bit/ increasing air flow)
Ducted the port and starboard fresh air intakes directly into the air cleaners (will add some photos)
Now it runs normal/subnormal temp even hard running.

[MarekH]

You've not told us what the chronic problem was. The limiting factor for cooling is when airflow and waterflow are at a minimum, so "hard running" ought not to be a problem.

The radiator foam to redirect probably was the easiest and most sensible alteration. The air will always take the easiest path, so forcing it through the radiator rather than allowing it to go around will make a massive difference. The shroud on top of the radiator already has foam, but this would be more useful if it were to extend further.

The ducted air ought not to have any effect on engine cooling.

engine cold air scoops 2 small.JPG (185.4 KiB) Viewed 4410 times

kind regards
Marek

[AussieEtype]

You spent a whole lot of money for nothing as the original cooling system works fine (even on a hot 40c summer day in Australia) if it maintained correctly.

You were better off serviceing your own cooling system.

Hmm OP first post pushing Wizard Cooling

[lowact]

Will be interesting to hear what the check of the old radiator core uncovers. Seems to me, whenever cooling issues are discussed, partially blocked radiator can never be discounted.

[Norton]

Hi. My S3 atuto was also running hot. Contacted a local radiator shop here in Norway. I was told that aluminium radiator was not a good idea, he claimed that copper/brass is far superior. He could change my radiator core, but rather expensive. If I insisted he could also sell me an aluminium one, but would absolutely not recommend it. But of course, it might be better business for him to change radiator core.

Anyone any facts on this issue?

However I cleaned out radiator as best as I could, what came out was very greyish but not real bad. The old thermostats checked out ok. put in new anyway (82˚). And now running at normal temperature. Thermostat or cleaning? Or both? I dont know. But know I should change one thing at a time to get knowledge. But hoses, thermostat housing etc was all dismantled to get it flushed out..

Harald

[MarekH]

The etype v12 is not known for cooling issues, so simple maintenance is all that is needed. In your case, it was probably a blocked up radiator. There is probably just as much debris, if not more, sitting at the bottom of the engine block liners as there will have been in the bottom of the radiator.

kind regards
Marek

[Norton]

Thanks. I used dishwasher machine detergent in the radiator, did not dare to use that in the aluminium engine. Flushed it « backwards» with a lot of hot water. Also radiator «bacwards» after sitting 12 hours with detergent. And water seemed to flow freely throug both.

But what about aluminium radiator versus traditional radiator?

Rgds Harald.

[Adamski]

I had the radiator rebuilt with a high flow +30% core and did fit multiblade fans. I have had the heads off some time back and did clean out the rear liner crud. Making sure the system holds 13 psi on test also. I've fitted rebuilt water pump and addressed every aspect if system. There's a lot of heat soak on these.
Yes massive improvement. the issue is town traffic where the fans are on. Motorway they are off and needle is mid range. The fuel does run hotter and soon we have E10.