61 OTS in the stable

[paydase]

I just doubled down, adding to my stabble this early OTS that will join my 64 3.8 FHC (which is still being restored).

This OTS was manufactured and dispatched in Oct 61.
So, without being an OBL, it's still a very early car with welded louvres and stamped number bonnet, flat floor and straight rear bulkhead of course, and many other distinctive features such as "double" boot hinges, three-post throttle linkage, etc.
I still have to identify all these peculiarities.

More importantly for me, it looks to be a very well preserved matching numbers car, albeit with unconfirmed history and unknown first owner (as per the Jaguar Heritage certificate), with apparently (looking at the insurance receipts) only one single owner in dry California from at least 1967 until 2017 when he passed away.
Bought then and recommissioned by a NL E-Type's dealer for his personal use until he accepted to sell it to me.

The car seems to be nearly unmolested, having apparently kept all its original body panels and looking totally rust free.
The body was resprayed probably in the 90's (paint still holding very well), all body seals are new, and some elements of the interior trim (leather of the seats, carpets) look so good that they have probably been also refurbished in the past, while some others like the tired flat dash top obviously look original.
Very nice patina overall!

Mechanically speaking, the car was still in great original condition to start from, and was recommissionned extensively by the seller, in particular: new fuel tank, rebuilt carbs, ignition and electricity, overhauling of braking, clutch, steering and cooling systems, filters, hoses, belts and rubbers.

The engine compressions are good and the car rides now smoothly with no visible issues.
The only significant departures from the original equipment look to be the replacement of the original electical generator by a modern look-alike alternator with an associated conversion to negative ground, and the loss of some original components and replacement by non original parts, notably the radiator and filler tank, the bonnet frame, the original Dunlop callipers, and the plugs conduit.

As a bonus, a complete factory hardop (including all the original chromes and latches) was part of the deal, although with some fitting issues maybe due to S2 toggles instead of S1's (I'l make a specific thread on that issue).

I hope to register that nice OTS soon to enjoy driving it when Spring comes.
A few pictures:

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[paydase]

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[mgcjag]

Very nice Serge .....Steve

[Gfhug]

Well done Serge, do tell us more about the car as you discover new details. More importantly, enjoy driving the car.

Geoff

[tinworm]

Nice car.

Barrie

[lopena]

Beautiful car! You’re a very lucky guy to acquire such a rare and important car.

If you decide to replace those Series 2 toggles with proper Series 1 toggles I have a set of originals off a ‘64 OTS…they need a rechrome but they’re yours for $100 plus shipping from the USA.

Good luck!
Alan
N.J.

[paydase]

Alan, thank you for your offer.

I had just posted a description of my issue on a thread of Jaglovers as that issue seemed to be described, albeit not fully clear to me:
https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/another ... /416757/62

Please have a look.
Do you think that the different design of the toggles is the reason of why I can't properly fit the hardtop?
If so I am interested and I will liaise with you by MP

[ralphr1780]

Bravo Serge, well done!
OTS require quite some fiddling for the optimal fit of soft and hard tops. There are many adjustments to play with, you need a long breath...
Also, the seals shape/quality/positioning play a very important role.
As for the toggles, my experience showed both models work.

[paydase]

Merci Ralph and everybody.

For the time being, regarding the hardtop fitting, I will loosen/remove the front clamps to see how I may improve the situation.

During my first real ride this WE, I had also another issue that I have to sort out: a dramatically and progressively decreasing oil pressure indication on the dashboard (down to around 15 psi at around 2000 rpm's and 5 psi at idle!).

The engine is however very smooth with no alarming noises, and the seller confirmed to me that he didn't notice any low pressure during the recommissioning and testing.
He tells me that the gauge was reacting as it should when driving. The car was driving with good power, no smoke, no issues.

I suspect a failing oil pressure sending unit.
I hesitate replacing it with a mechanical gauge kit and may in a first step attempt replacing it with a new standard one.
Any opinions on this and possible suppliers?

[mgcjag]

Hi Serge...have you seen this thread from Marek re a calibration device. .....Steve viewtopic.php?f=3&p=151055#p151055

[paydase]

Thank you Steve, yes I saw it.

I am however not sure that it could solve my problem that apparently appeared recently and has worsened maybe beyond "tuning/boost", as I understand from Marek's device.

I will first make some verifications on my car to see if the issue is confirmed at cold start and when warming.

Also I noticed a very high oil level in the sump (from the gauge).
Do you think that this may favour the production of foam and thereafter reduce the oil pressure transmitted and seen by the sensor in the oil pressure sender unit?
(not seen foam after cooling down of the engine but just trying to eliminate all possible causes)

[mgcjag]

Hi Serge...its not uncommon as you know for some E types to be overfilled..... personally i would drain it and refill with a measured quantity of oil.....and a grade that suits you.....then you have a known starting point....i would also plumb i a wet guage so you can see exactly whats going on .Steve

[Mich7920]

For the oil pressure you can only change the sender before you make a decision on how to be sure you have the true oil pressure indicated on the gauge. This is cheap.
If you change the oil, change the other fluids too. You'll can see if they are clear or old.
Very nice car indeed !
Mich

[ralphr1780]

Serge, as Steve is recommending better first to drain the oil sump and measure what you take out.
Then refill with right volume of fresh oil.
When engine is on idle, lift the oil fill cap and have a look: you should see the oil flowing nicely to lubricate the cams.

[paydase]

Did a static test of the engine to check my oil pressure issue.
The gauge indication on cold start rises to about 35 psi at idle (about 800 rpm).
When water has warmed to about 70°C, there is no significant decrease in the oil pressure as shown by the gauge:

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I know that with such a short test, it's still far from having warmed the oil (I could not continue my test, an upset lady came to tell me that I was making noise...).
But it seems to me at least that the engine does not suffer from worn crankshaft bearings.

Next time I will make a road test again.
If the pressure reading decreases again, it will be time for the sending unit replacement.

In the meantime, a few shots of additional specific features of this early car, starting with the bonnet

Smaller bonnet mouth:

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Stamped body number on the bonnet:

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[Gfhug]

Serge, tell the upset lady she has no soul. An XK is a beautiful engine to see and listen to, she needs education!

Geoff

[MarkRado]

I'd get the capillary Smiths lookalike gauge sold by the usuals (I got mine from Merlin Motorsports) - reliable, and if you change over the dial face, it looks like original. If you want to stay completely original, temporarily check real vs indicated pressure: install a t-piece at the block and connect a mechanical gauge parallel to the original sender. Also a useful workshop tool whenever you doubt oil pressure on any XK engine ; ))

[paydase]

I have made other drive tests and the lowering of oil pressure when engine hot is confirmed: around 20 psi when running and 5 psi at idle.

For the time being, I see the following possibilities:
- a defective OP sender unit (but why only when oil is hot?);
- a leaking pressure release valve on the oil filter housing (increasing with hot, thinned, oil);
- an oil leak (gasket? crack?) internal to the filter housing;
- a tired oil pump that could not ensure flow/pressure of a thinning oil; or
- tired bearings in the crankshaft assembly with a limited wedge pressure with hot oil (worst case scenario).

My intent is to proceed step by step, from the easiest to the hardest.

First would be to check the pressure release valve, see if there might be a debris (or a tired return spring) that would keep the valve slightly open with then an increasing direct oil flow back to the sump when the oil is thinning, hence decreasing the OP.

I understand that I should disassembly the valve from the oil filter housing (A, in the picture) after having removed the return hose to the sump.
Could that be done in-situ, without removing the oil filter housing from the block? (seems that it is a 27 mm spanner but I have no lift and access is limited...)

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If nothing wrong regarding the valve, next step would be to check the OP with a mechanical OP gauge or with another electrical sender unit after having removed the current sender unit (B, in the picture).
Again is the unscrewing easy in-situ after having removed the air filter and should I replace any seal there?

Thanks for your advices.

[mgcjag]

Hi Serge...in my opinion your first and easiest test is to connect a mechanicsl guage and see what you actual pressure is.....befor you start taking things apart..Steve

[paydase]

Thank you Steve.
If I do not remove the sender unit, where is the most convenient place to connect a mechanical gauge?