Hi,
Just tried to go for a ride, first one this year. But the clutch pedal went right to the bottom without any resistance.
Checked reservoar level, a litle low but not empty. Tried to look for leaks but the slave seems dry outside and no visible leaks on the master cylinder.
The car has been pushed a little around in the garage so difficult to see on the floor if there has been any leaks to the floor.
Any idea what I should start looking for? Is dismantlig of the master cylinder the place to start or should I check anything else first?
Cheers
Jon
Clutch problem
#2 Re: Clutch problem
Hi jon...pull up your front footwell carpet..its not uncommon for master cylinder to leak fluid out....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: Clutch problem
I personally would start with the slave, (if I am permitted to say that word in Jaguar circles !), cylinder rather than the master cylinder. Any loss of fluid from the master would be visible into the car by looking up under the steering column.
With regard to the slave - you don’t identify your car so it could be the short or long type, or fitted with a return spring - but regardless, any loss of fluid would be visible externally if the internal seal had failed which would allow fluid to escape as at rest the fluid will flow out through the master under gravity. It is only once the clutch pedal is initially pressed that the port in the master cylinder is closed and any fluid thus “trapped” is pushed down to operate the slave.
There is normally some fluid retained in the clutch reservoir as the supply pipe into the master usually has a upward curved area where it enters the master which will hold back some fluid. The failure to remove all the air from the slave is a notorious problem as the bleed nipple is on the underside of the slave. This can be rectified by fitting a remote bleeding kit which reverses the entry pipe to the underside and air in the system is bled from the top port.
If it is a hydrostatic 95mm long cylinder - which does not have a spring - this relies on the slave seal being pushed back to an internal point by the clutch itself and possibly it ended up in a different place after being unused for some time. The clutch will need to be pressed a few times to get the hydrostatic slave “primed” up and into it’s natural working position. So it may pay to top up your reservoir and see if the pedal situation changes after a few pumps.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Dave
With regard to the slave - you don’t identify your car so it could be the short or long type, or fitted with a return spring - but regardless, any loss of fluid would be visible externally if the internal seal had failed which would allow fluid to escape as at rest the fluid will flow out through the master under gravity. It is only once the clutch pedal is initially pressed that the port in the master cylinder is closed and any fluid thus “trapped” is pushed down to operate the slave.
There is normally some fluid retained in the clutch reservoir as the supply pipe into the master usually has a upward curved area where it enters the master which will hold back some fluid. The failure to remove all the air from the slave is a notorious problem as the bleed nipple is on the underside of the slave. This can be rectified by fitting a remote bleeding kit which reverses the entry pipe to the underside and air in the system is bled from the top port.
If it is a hydrostatic 95mm long cylinder - which does not have a spring - this relies on the slave seal being pushed back to an internal point by the clutch itself and possibly it ended up in a different place after being unused for some time. The clutch will need to be pressed a few times to get the hydrostatic slave “primed” up and into it’s natural working position. So it may pay to top up your reservoir and see if the pedal situation changes after a few pumps.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Dave
Dave Rose
1967 Series 1 4.2 FHC
1967 Series 1 4.2 FHC
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#4 Re: Clutch problem
I guess I would try bleeding the clutch in the normal way and see if there is any air bubbles in the system.
Danny
1962 S1 3.8 FHC (1012/1798)
2015 Range Rover Sport SVR
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
1962 S1 3.8 FHC (1012/1798)
2015 Range Rover Sport SVR
"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
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#5 Re: Clutch problem
Hi, thanks for all input.
I started checking the footwell in front, nothing there.
Then I checked the slave. It was normal and dry on the outside but when I squeezed the rubber boot some fluid came out. When I loosened it even more fluid came out. So I removed the slave and took a look inside and it did not look nice. Disassembled everything and cleaned and on the walls it had some corrosion. So it seems like I need to replace it. Maybe I will try to hone the cylinder just as a temporary repair but I think it is so damaged that I need a new one.
Jon
I started checking the footwell in front, nothing there.
Then I checked the slave. It was normal and dry on the outside but when I squeezed the rubber boot some fluid came out. When I loosened it even more fluid came out. So I removed the slave and took a look inside and it did not look nice. Disassembled everything and cleaned and on the walls it had some corrosion. So it seems like I need to replace it. Maybe I will try to hone the cylinder just as a temporary repair but I think it is so damaged that I need a new one.
Jon
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#6 Re: Clutch problem
Jon, some have recommended trying a company called Past Parts in the UK who will line the slave with stainless steel.
Geoff
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#7 Re: Clutch problem
Jon,
I have now had all my cylinders - brake and clutch - relined now in Stainless Steel by Past Parts over the years as each original part failed. To me, especially as my car is not used for many months of the year, probably around 6 months from the end of summer through to using it again in the next year, it makes practical sense. The problem comes that once corrosion sets in the part of the bore not usually swept by working seal, it only takes an extra bit of movement of the seal in the bore - such as when bleeding the system, especially on the brake cylinders - the seal catches on the corroded area and either sticks in position or damages the lip of the seal. Once relined in Stainless Steel, this problem of having corrosion goes away.
Past Parts are a good friendly company to deal with and usually turn the item around very quickly. Once received, they give a quote and usually within the week they call again to confirm and take payment with the item returned the next day. They also offer to leave unpainted or provide a surface treatment. No allegiance other than a satisfied customer over many years.
Regards,
Dave
I have now had all my cylinders - brake and clutch - relined now in Stainless Steel by Past Parts over the years as each original part failed. To me, especially as my car is not used for many months of the year, probably around 6 months from the end of summer through to using it again in the next year, it makes practical sense. The problem comes that once corrosion sets in the part of the bore not usually swept by working seal, it only takes an extra bit of movement of the seal in the bore - such as when bleeding the system, especially on the brake cylinders - the seal catches on the corroded area and either sticks in position or damages the lip of the seal. Once relined in Stainless Steel, this problem of having corrosion goes away.
Past Parts are a good friendly company to deal with and usually turn the item around very quickly. Once received, they give a quote and usually within the week they call again to confirm and take payment with the item returned the next day. They also offer to leave unpainted or provide a surface treatment. No allegiance other than a satisfied customer over many years.
Regards,
Dave
Dave Rose
1967 Series 1 4.2 FHC
1967 Series 1 4.2 FHC
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