Handbrake help needed please!

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Wed May 11, 2011 3:01 pm

I found a link to a description of the JEC cable

http://www.jec-etype-forum.org.uk/etbb2 ... 010616.htm

This gives clear advice on how to set up the linkage. I can see from this that my cable clevis is clearly too long and as noted previously the block must be installed the other way around.

I've ordered a JEC cable.

..and I've just received a replacement caliper from my supplier

I feel some progress here!

Thanks to all - you are a great help

Graham

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Wed May 11, 2011 3:46 pm

If it means anything I changed all 4 of my original Dunlop pistons for Coopercraft ones without removing the IRS or the calipers.

Not going to say its easy but it can be done at least on a 3.8.

Dave

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Wed May 11, 2011 8:30 pm

got home this evening and the JEC cable has turned up - great service.

The clevis is SO much smaller than that currently on my car. I'm sure it will fit through the block on the right side ... so I'm feeling a whole lot better about the situation.

I'll post a comparison photo when I have both cables side by side.

Cheers
Graham

Larry Wade · Post by **Larry Wade** » Thu May 12, 2011 4:04 am

Oops. You're completely right. Mine are Dunlops and yours are a LOT different.

Sorry. I blew it. I was so excited to share too! Oh well....

I still don't buy their leaking explanation.

You bleed the brakes which should blow any junk out.

Actuation only moves the pistons a few thousandths of an inch. Nothing should blow past the seals at all (ever). So why would bits of metal get shoved into much less past the seals?

If it wasn't assembled clean, the seals were nicked during instillation (can easily happen) or the cylinders weren't honed well then you'll get leaking after instillation. All of those are the responsibility of the buys who rebuilt the brakes. They do look great on the outside.

Best wishes,

Larry

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Thu May 12, 2011 3:49 pm

Graham : you can access the caliper bolts through the disc . As well as two bolts ( the ones to which you have already referred holding the caliper to the bracket ) there are 3 which hold the half moon shaped bracket to the final drive. These, after taking the steps already set out , can be accessed with a socket and extension bar, but as we have already discussed , all the prior dismantling necessary is much easier if you drop the rear suspension

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Thu May 12, 2011 4:54 pm

Chris,

That's interesting. I don't have half moon shaped brackets IIRC. The caliper is bolted the output shaft flange (bolts facing outwards) which is bolted to the diff by I think 5 bolts - now those may be accessible through the disc. So if I removed the 5 bolts through the disc the caliper, output shaft with its bearing and the output flange would all come away?

I'm going to have another look. Perhaps I'm missing something here!

Thanks for the thought .. you are most likely correct!

Graham

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Thu May 12, 2011 6:53 pm

Graham

I only know this because I've just done it! The half moons are difficult to see but the bolts do indeed go into the diff casing adjacent to the output flange at ( looking inwards towards the disc from the side) roughly the 12 o clock , half past 3 and half past 6 positions .I had to use a bright torch to see them through the disc hole, and if the cage is in situ you will have to do it by feel

If you unscrew these 3 bolts, the half moon together with the bracket to which you referred and the caliper all come away together

I am trying to find an exploded drawing

Chris

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Fri May 13, 2011 5:23 pm

Hmmmm .... I wonder if this is because we have different output flanges. My diff has the Type 3 which seems to have a different bolt configuration.

I've now dropped the IRS - of course it wasn't that difficult having only just been installed a week ago, I think it was more the thought of going backwards rather than forwards that put me off removing it again.

Anyway I have removed the leaking caliper and removed the offending piston. It is clear now why it was leaking. The seal has a damaged section about 5mm long - it is very noticeable when I run my finger around the seal. The indent looks like someone may have pushed the seal in with something or it may possibly be a defect in the manufacture of the seal itself.
Has taken quite a while to get back to square one but hopefully new caliper will be OK.

Photo below doesn't really show the problem clearly - but it is there!

As for the handbrake cable here is a comparison between old and the JEC one.

I suppose with the cable properly assembled with the block the right way round and if the old clevis had a new hole drilled in it, the old cable could have been made to work. I'll just install the JEC cable as I have bought it anyway.

And here it is temporarily installed to check fit. Now that looks better!

Thanks to everyone on here I think I've sorted the back end out. Just got to get it back in and hope the new caliper doesn't leak

Cheers
Graham

Post by **mgcjag** » Fri May 13, 2011 5:37 pm

Hi Graham .......Good news well done.....I pressure tested my brakes in the IRS befor re install.......A spare length of brake pipe as a temporary link between the IRS brakes & brake line would do.....Incidently on my 69 S2 2+2 I have exactly the same calliper set up as you with the bolts holding the callipers fitted from the Diff side pointing out & the wired heads of the bolts next to the Diff......also looked at a friends 1970 S2 OTS....& exactly the same......All the best .Steve

Post by **Heuer** » Fri May 13, 2011 5:39 pm

Can't see it on your pictures Graham but have you fitted remote bleeders?

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Fri May 13, 2011 5:47 pm

mgcjag wrote:Hi Graham .......Good news well done.....I pressure tested my brakes in the IRS befor re install.......A spare length of brake pipe as a temporary link between the IRS brakes & brake line would do.....Incidently on my 69 S2 2+2 I have exactly the same calliper set up as you with the bolts holding the callipers fitted from the Diff side pointing out & the wired heads of the bolts next to the Diff......also looked at a friends 1970 S2 OTS....& exactly the same......All the best .Steve

Thanks Steve --- yes I should do that. I have spare pipe. I'd hate to have to drop it all again!!

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Fri May 13, 2011 5:50 pm

Heuer wrote:Can't see it on your pictures Graham but have you fitted remote bleeders?

Hi Dave,

I was going to but they weren't available from my supplier - out of stock. When I came to bleed the brakes I was surprised how easy it was through the rear access panels in the car. Not as easy as remote bleeders certainly but at least do-able.

If they had been in stock I would have fitted them but want to press on. I'm hoping to get to Silverstone in July!

Cheers
Graham

Post by **Heuer** » Fri May 13, 2011 6:02 pm

Have you tried these suppliers:
Rear brake remote bleed kit (IRS and brake parts): http://www.ward-engineering.co.uk/calipers.htm
Rear brake remote bleed kit: Stevson Motors: http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/contactus.htm

Stevson are most helpful by the way.

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sat May 14, 2011 1:19 am

Heuer wrote:Have you tried these suppliers:
Rear brake remote bleed kit (IRS and brake parts): http://www.ward-engineering.co.uk/calipers.htm
Rear brake remote bleed kit: Stevson Motors: http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/contactus.htm

Stevson are most helpful by the way.

David,

I bought a set of rear remote brake bleeders fom Stevson a few years ago at Stoneleigh and they were nothing but trouble. They cost me ?40 and I ended up throwing them in the bin. Maybe I just had a bad batch.

Rob Beere also sells them now.

Dave

kgnich · Post by **kgnich** » Mon May 16, 2011 8:25 am

Just to complete this thread I now have a fully sorted brake system.

I pressure tested all the rear as suggested by Steve before installing the IRS. Of course it was fine with the new caliper but a good idea to test as it is easy to inspect all the unions with the IRS in the open.

I found bleeding the brakes through the access panels to be quite straightforward so I'm happy to leave the remote bleeders off at this stage. Hope I don't regret that later.

My handbrake is now working correctly. 5 clicks and it is on. 6 clicks and it is as tight as it will go - and still plenty of movement available at the block to clevis connectoin. I'm very pleased.

Finally IRS now fully installed again and just the exhaust to go - with a minor fix needed on that!

Thanks to everyone for your support it has been a great help.

Cheers
Graham

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