Hot water temp..

Technical advice Q&A

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Paul bow
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#1 Hot water temp..

Post by Paul bow » Thu Aug 10, 2023 6:15 am

Hi guys my freshly rebuilt S2 seems to run hotter than I would like .. it sits even when cruising on the L of normal.
It’s fitted with a Radtec ally rad and fans and water wetter so was hoping for a cooler cat.!
Tried 2 gauges and sensors so wondering if maybe an air lock in the system.. any ideas how to bleed that out?
Fans kick in at 90degrees, sounds a bit late to me I would have thought 85 might b better ?
Cheers guys
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration now sold)

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mgcjag
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#2 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by mgcjag » Thu Aug 10, 2023 7:26 am

What temperature is the car actually running at...try an infared reader on the manifold...voltage stabiliser?..thermostat....have you checked its operating temperature and timing and mixture....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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Paul bow
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#3 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by Paul bow » Thu Aug 10, 2023 7:59 am

Hi Steve.. so IR thermometer on the rubber top hose reads 70 and similar at the housing, it runs an ecu which controls the fan which cones in at 90 deg, this is a separate sensor to the one which reads to the temperature gauge in the dash..
Reading up on other posts it seems these gauges are unreliable.
I thought that the IR gun was faulty as when the fans come on at 90, the temperature at the housing reads low 70’s.. but confusing tbh
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration now sold)

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Paul bow
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#4 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by Paul bow » Thu Aug 10, 2023 8:09 am

Forgot to say voltage stabiliser new..
An airlock I thought but I don’t really fully understand why that wouldn’t bleed itself out running with the rad cap off ?
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration now sold)

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mgcjag
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#5 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by mgcjag » Thu Aug 10, 2023 8:28 am

Hi Paul....you need to work out is your car actually running hot...or is the guage not accurate....these guages as we know arnt accurate...they dont give an exact tempetature..they are just a guide really......a new voltage stabiser dosnt mean that its working correctly....and your thermostat what temp is it and is it opening/ closing at its rated temp.....air lock shouldnt be a problem really..heater set to hot....do you still have an air bleed from thermostat houseing to radiator as per standard S2......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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Paul bow
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#6 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by Paul bow » Thu Aug 10, 2023 8:57 am

Yes still have the air bleed Steve .. had to modify as it’s a Jenvey manifold but it’s still there.. can’t remember the thermo rating have to check old receipts, but I’m with you on the only a guide issue, unreliable readings .. think I’ll get it checked out with some more professional diagnosis when it returns to Northampton motorsport .. cheers Steve 👍
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration now sold)

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mgcjag
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#7 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by mgcjag » Thu Aug 10, 2023 9:39 am

Jenvey manifold.....so have you fitted the S2 thermostat houseing and still have bypass and standard type S2 thermostat.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#8 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by Paul bow » Wed Aug 16, 2023 8:04 pm

Hi Steve sorry for the late response ..
Yes I kept the original thermostat housing in a Jenvey manifold … I know what your thinking, that dont fit, well yes you’d be right but u didn’t realise that the Jenvey manifold is longer in length in the water rail and so the thermostat housing now sits so further forward that upon shutting the bonnet it left a nice new power bulge in the new freshly painted bonnet !!!
So I chopped off about 14mm from the top of the housing,welded the hole shut and tapped a thread into the side of the housing, tapped a thread onto the old outlet pipe and I’m pleased to say it works well.
It’s easier to see the pics below to see how I got around it, it now has a decent 10mm clearance.
Attachments
IMG_3917.jpeg
IMG_3917.jpeg (89.81 KiB) Viewed 3223 times
IMG_3918.jpeg
IMG_3918.jpeg (83.11 KiB) Viewed 3223 times
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration now sold)

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mgcjag
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#9 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by mgcjag » Thu Aug 17, 2023 8:16 am

Hi Paul....i thought with the Jenvey manifold you use the S1 houseing and thermostat?......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#10 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by Paul bow » Thu Aug 17, 2023 11:13 am

Well that as maybe Steve.. barratt and Jenvey told me for the S2 there was no adaption but Jenvey and barratt were working on one together.
I sent Peter the tech guy at barrat the adaption as he had been most helpful in trying to come up with a solution, he reckoned that was a good and easy way to solve the issue on the clearence.
However..
Tbh at this stage of the build I was not about to embark on a different cooling system the S1 rad and s2 are completely different as you know, it was far easier to just adapt what I had, any air in the system bleeds out the same way as it would have before .. and took only a few hours to do, which for me was key ..👍
Previously...S1 OTS E type (sold)
S1 2+2 manual. (Sold)
S2 rhd OTS full resto finished 8/23
S1 3.8 coupe (full restoration now sold)

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politeperson
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#11 Re: Hot water temp..

Post by politeperson » Fri Aug 18, 2023 5:34 pm

Sorry to hear about the paint!

I am pretty sure you can just fit the thermostat without the center section?


Series 2 with a Jenvey manifold standard TBs and original style Rad
Image
Series 2 with a Jenvey manifold standard TBs and a Radtec rad (much better)
Image
Series One Jenvey Heritage throttle bodies with a Radtec Rad
Image
Finishing off an S1 roadster

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