Two electrical questions

[No Quarter]

Almost ready to test the wiring by attaching the battery. Two things I found that I don't understand:
-That resistor, where should it go? Between ignition switch and coil? Or? There's nowhere in the wiring where it looks to fit between
-Red wire from ignition switch connected to white wire, the connector doesn't look 1963. Any ideas?

[No Quarter]

Attached the battery just now, no shorts, a lot of things work, but far from it all...

Question #3: The bonnet connector, bought a replacement from my local parts guy, but it didn't fit. My connector on the bonnet looks like the first picture, all round the clock equal distance, but what I can buy locally looks like the second picture, grouped in 3 and 4. ??? Do I have replace both parts then?

[Simonpfhc]

Hi Mikael,

The first picture looks like the resistor for the fan blower motor. It is riveted underneath the blower assembly in the engine bay.

The second picture is a later DIY repair and not original. Stick to the original wiring diagram for referrence.

The third issue - I’ve always replaced both parts so never had an issue. The connectors sit right down by the front wheel and get loads of muck so will usually corrode and benefit from replacement.

[cactusman]

I agree with Simon. 1. Heater motor resistor for slow run position. It looks in poor condition. 2. Later bodge probably to extend the white wire that joins to the red wire using a wire nut (awful idea On a car!). 3. If the pins don't align then you won't ever get them to connect. Replace both ends with new.
As a general point I never just connect the battery to a newly (re) wired car. I use a current limited, 13.8 volt 10 amp regulated supply for initial testing. If there is a serious fault then the 10 amp limit prevents any serious risk of cables overheating. In the absence of a current limited supply for initial testing, connect the battery to the car via a 21 watt indicator bulb in series with the positive (or negative) connection. That way On connection if the bulb stays off or glows dimly all is well. If it lights brightly there is a serious short circuit somewhere or you have the headlight on!
If you have a good quality multimeter with a facility to zero out test lead resistance you can do a resistance test but it isn't always reliable as it may show a very low resistance if a bulb load is present...they have a low resistance when cold so even the courtesy light may make you imagine there is a short when there isnt. The indicator bulb trick is infallible and will limit the current to a bit under 2 amps even is there is a complete short not protected by a fuse...
Always try to keep the Lucas wiring smoke in the cables

[No Quarter]

I checked amps running between battery pole and wiring, 0.0000

Question #4: I have three switches, Map, Panel and Interior, to provide lights. Map also connects to doors. But which lamps are supposed to light up?

My guess:
Map, light at underside of top of dash?
Panel, gauges?
Interior, roof lamp?
Or?

[Simonpfhc]

Hi Mikael,

The wiring diagram will give you all these answers, but yes, you are correct with your guesses. There is a ballast resistor on the panel light switch to give you dim and not so dim (Jaguar called it bright!) for the gauges.

You do have a wiring digram, right?

@Julian, love your indicator bulb trick!

[No Quarter]

I do have a wiring diagram that I almost know by heart now. But when it says map lamp, not sure what that is. Have never driven an E-Type more than 100 meter.
And the wiring diagram assumes nobody has fiddled with the wires for 60 years, and my initial tests indicated that wires were changed.
The question was to save me some time, that's all

[Simonpfhc]

Ah yes, I see your challenge. So yes, the Map light is the light under the dash top that is also operated by either of the doors opening. The interior light is the light in the roof by the top of the rear hatch door. By all means take loads of photos of the wiring as you find it, but absolutely always follow the factory wiring diagram as the wire colours are (as far as I know) 100% correct.

As an aside, the panel lights (that illuminate the gauges) are only operated by the dash switch and do not automatically come on by turning on the side lights! Which is now a standard on all modern cars. If you are ever after an additional switch for something non-standard, then consider wiring the panel lights to the side light connections and free up the panel light switch.

[No Quarter]

Thanks Simon, yes got it working now. Except the two bulbs in tach, so was it wiring, was it ground? No, two bulbs needed replacing

Can't do more work today, but gotten quite far, got most things to work. All fuses ok

Status today

Not tested yet:
-everything in bonnet front. Not sure to fix my plug, og buy new male/female plug, or just route wires (a pain if bonnet must come off). Question #5: Is the stationary part of that plug easy to replace on an assembled painted car (icescoops are not in)
-cooling fan
-brake fluid level
-flasher
-choke warning
-starter circuit

Tested but not working:
-Handbrake switch/warning lamp
-wiper (have not tested yet if it's wiring/switch or the motor itself, motor looks quite new)
-clock (not surprising?)

A nice to-do list for tomorrow

[Simonpfhc]

As long as the Sugar Scoops are not installed, it is an easy job to change the bonnet-side of that connector.

[cactusman]

Thanks Simon...tis a handy trick....the indicator bulb...

Trouble is most cheap digital multimeters are hopeless at accurate measurements of an ohm or less...a short. Loads like bulbs and motors will also often read as a near short with a meter. Using a cheap multimeter to monitor current is also unwise when the supply is a car battery as the potential overload current can be tens of amps and will either destroy the meter if it has no fuse on the ten amp range...cheap ones do not...or will possibly cause the leads to melt!

A quality digital multimeter e.g. Fluke can make reasonably accurate sub 1 ohm measurements if the meter.is zeroed correctly and the 10 amp current range is protected by a fuse. These are specialist fuses and savagely expensive to replace! Ask me how I know?

Best option for monitoring current draw..pick up an old analogue Avo Mark 7 or 8. Built to last for ever and they have a resettable overload cut out should disaster strike. They do have the ability to measure resistance but sub ohm measurements are unlikely to be particularly meaningful.

[cactusman]

And for anyone working on the wiring, the diagram is your friend...see the knowledge base as most of them are available there.

[No Quarter]

Today my lack of electrical knowledge became clear to me. What happened, I would have betted many € against it.

My electric fan works when I short the wires at the otter switch. Fine. But it turns the wrong way, pushing air forward. Annoying I thought, have to lower motor, switch the wires. So I did. But wait, it still ran the wrong way! Impossible I thought, there's not much room and visibility, so I must have done it wrong. So switched them again. It still ran the wrong way. Thried one more time, still the wrong way. My car is DC, not AC!

By chance I had two extra of those motors from the seller. Tested them both on a battery, one always the wrong way, but the last fortunately the right way, so I'll just paint and replace.

Question #6: Why are they always one way? And the two I have that go the wrong way, what are they to be use for? Are there wings canted in both directions?

[No Quarter]

Had to give up on original 8 pin bonnet connector and buy a new one (€€€). Is there an official wiring diagram, couldn't find it? Are wires same color on both sides of that connector?

Mine is with horns out front...

[caveman]

This may help:
viewtopic.php?t=5087

[No Quarter]

Excellent caveman

[No Quarter]

Brilliant drawing. Connector installed. First no headlights, weak flashers, p-lights flashing with flasher. The latter is often weak ground. Found a ground connector near battery that I had overlooked, attached and then everything electrical in the bonnet works

It's often the simple things...

[caveman]

Mikael,
Glad to be of some assistance, well done tracking it down.
You’ll have to do the LED bulb upgrades, brake light switch and headlamp relay upgrade next. It’s worth it.

[No Quarter]

First I will get it to run and work with more or less what I have. Upgrades will come later...