Brake Issues - S1 4.2l OTS

[Wickens]

I need some help with the brakes, and various threads I have been through aren't solving it for me.

I've had my Etype extremely lightly used in storage effectively for almost 2 years now, parked with hand brake engaged. Just got the car shipped out to me a few days ago.

Red hand brake light stays on when I drop the hand brake. This is new. Previously it was sort of sensitive the last few years and the light flickered a bit unless I made sure the handle was 100% down.

Brake fluid reservoir is about half full. When I engage the clutch, I can feel the resistance to get rolling, so I don't think it is just a light issue. However, no smell of engaged brakes after driving for a bit, and brake pedal feels fine if a little stiff. No squeal either.

I've always had problems with the brakes on this vehicle. Had a leaking master cylinder that was eating the paint work for years. Primary mechanic (at the time) finally fixed it properly, but I don't really trust his work and haven't used him in years.

Since that fix, brake pedal is stiffer than it was 20 years ago (it was probably a bit softer than it should be before, but it feels harder now than I think it should do), but brake performance while driving is fine in terms of stopping power. Also, since then, they stick on at times and you have to pump the brake pedal to free it up. I haven't experienced it in the last few days, but I'm not putting miles on this until I get this figured out.

I really have no idea where to start if someone can help.

[mgcjag]

Your red warning light is on becaus your reservoir is low...brakes sticking not unusual for it to be the reaction valve...fluid should be replaced very 2 years..so in my opinion a good break overhaul and new fluid as a start...if you dont know where to start then maybee find a suitable Jag specialist...Steve

[abowie]

.so in my opinion a good break overhaul and new fluid as a start...

Steve is right.

A full brake overhaul before trying to drive the car.

[bitsobrits]

The handbrake light issue can also be caused by a fault with the spring actuator on the handbrake switch, or the switch itself. More likely just the spring, which can be replaced separately from the switch. Does need the console removed to accomplish this, so not a trivial undertaking.

[Wickens]

Ok, thanks guys. Will start with the brake service.

I've moved to a fairly rural area that doesn't have a classic jag specialist. Is this something I should learn to do myself, trust to a general european car mechanic, or trust to a brake place?

[mgcjag]

Learning how to maintain these old cars is always a good idea...especially with the help available on this forum....however it needs to be something you would enjoy doing....and you need tools and facilities...a service manual your starting point...if your looking to take it somewhere then at least ensure that they work on 60,70,80s cars regularly....Steve

[Gfhug]

There are some online courses to help look after classic cars, such as: https://www.skillshack.co.uk/
That could be a starting point to help you learn.
Look in the technical knowledge section for a list of the books to buy and you can download a page or two from the manuals to print out and have to hand when working. BUT you must buy the book not just rely on the technical section.

Geoff

[caveman]

If your Red Warning light remains on after filling brake fluid reservoirs up, go with post #4 (Steve). The clip may be loose or missing/broken or switch maybe faulty. If you suspect the switch, pull wires off rear and briefly touch together (make or break circuit). The Red light should go on and off.

[Wickens]

Thanks, very helpful. May try it myself. I don't have any specialty brake tools other than a can of brake cleaner from when I last serviced the drum brakes on a 1949 Citroen Light 15. But I didn't touch the hydraulic system. Never done that before, but I'm not working at the moment so I have a lot of time I don't usually have.

[abowie]

Basic brake maintenance isn't complex, but you do need to stay aware of the fact that brakes are mission critical; they have to work.

Learning how to bleed them correctly is a useful skill although it is one that can be frustrating when it doesn't work.

The original Jaguar Service Manual covers the brakes very well.

[MarekH]

The brake warning light being "on" is an electrical thing.

It is lit because it has 12v across it. 12v is supplied by the white ignition wire, but the earth path via the black/white wire has more than one way back to earth.

You need an electrical diagram for your car. You then need to disconnect each of the black/white connections in turn to find out which one is providing the path to earth. A malfunctioning handbrake switch can do it; a half full brake reservoir can do it; a sinking float connection in a reservoir cap can do it; a wiring short circuit can do it.

Eliminate the easy electrical bit from the hunt and verify that the light works for the right reason, not simply all of the time, then you can go on and service the brakes in the normal way.

kind regards
Marek

[Wickens]

Ok, thanks. I suppose that make sense. As I said, brakes are sticky any way, so I'll probably just do both. But yeah, get the electrics sorted first. I really don't want to get at the handbrake based on what I have read about access, hopefully it is just the reservoirs and then I can flush that system properly instead of topping up.

[MarekH]

It's pretty straightforward - just unplug black/white wires one by one and watch to see which one makes the light go out. That tells you you just cut the path to earth. Then fix that. Then plug them back in one by one and if the light goes on, fix that one also, as there may be more than one black/white path to earth.

kind regards
Marek