Clutch replacement

[Simon Bolton]

Hi All
Engine is now out for a new clutch(4.2 2+2) and what a job that is.I am having to rest up and wait for all the abrasions to heal !!Any recommendations as to supplier or type.I have heard that there is a replacement for the release bearing i.e not carbon...true or false and is it worth it if true. Any tips more than welcome and before you ask, yes I am putting in an XJ6 overdrive box.
Also Classic Car Engines ltd offer a rear crank oil seal conversion for ?180
Seems steep or is it worth it to stop that eternal leak.
Many thanks
Simon

[1954Etype]

Simon good name clutch should be fine - AP or equivalent. Overdrive box is a fantastic mod on the 2+2. Not heard of a replacement for the carbon release bearing. Crankshaft mod is done with crank out as it needs machining. I have heard of people who have had this done but the engine still leaked.

[Heuer]

Best avoid the modern lip seal. It either works or it does not and the latter is always catastrophic failure. No going back as the crank will have been machined so it is engine out and start again. If you are having the engine rebuilt and refitted by a pro then it is down to them to get it right, but imagine having to go through all that at home. Rope seal works provided it is fitted properly with correct sizing tool and left to soak in oil for 24 hours.

[Mark Gordon]

XKs Unlimited carry the roller bearing throw out bearing for the clutch. Here's the link: http://partsxks.com/search.html?q=throw ... &go=Search

[abowie]

I'm going down this path at the moment, and can feel your pain from taking the engine out.

I can't speak from experience but I have trolled all the forum posts I can find and asked advice from those who are reputed to know.

After some deliberation I am paying someone to rebuild my engine for me. While I could do it myself, I'm prepared to pay someone who has a lot of experience. I hope what I'm buying is peace of mind. In an effort to contain costs I'm doing all the part procurement myself as well as having removed and stripped the engine myself. As parts and machining are the lion's share of the build cost it's actually only costing me about 20% more to have the engine professionally assembled.

As David has said, the crank seal upgrades are reputed to be not 100% reliable and if they fail, fail badly necessitating disassembly of the engine to rectify the problem. I've been advised to use the stock seal, and will stick with that advice.

Carbon thrust bearings, while old technology, generally work well, last well and cause few problems.

Either AP or Borg and Beck clutches are good. Beware cheaper "no name" units; they may be Landrover units which are not as strong and have less travel than the proper HK9702 unit.