S1 REAR LIGHTS

ALAN COCHRANE · Post by **ALAN COCHRANE** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:12 pm

Hi Everyone

I've just removed the rear bumpers on the OTS along with the rear light clusters ready for re-chroming. I managed to remove the passenger side bumper without taking out the petrol tank which was a bit of a bonus-I'm feeling rather smug about that!
I discovered after taking the light units apart that they were screwed together with a mixture of self tappers and machine screws. Another bodge uncovered.
My question is should the bulb holders be removed before chroming or left in?
The rear of the units need repainting and the reflectors either repainted or re-chromed. Which would be best?

Cheers

Alan

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 10:19 pm

Alan,

They should be removed, only the casings that are being rechromed need to be at the platers.

Dave

ALAN COCHRANE · Post by **ALAN COCHRANE** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:44 am

Thanks for the reply Dave.
I'll drill out the retaining rivets and give them a paint while the rest is away being chromed.
The reflectors look like they're made of plastic so should just require a clean up and paint. The rear looks a bit sturdier so might be OK for blasting. Have you tried this or is the whole unit to fragile for this?

Alan

ALAN COCHRANE · Post by **ALAN COCHRANE** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:06 pm

Hello Again

I'm now in the process of removing the front bumpers and have hit a snag with the Sugar Scoops.
Both the Haynes and workshop manual mention three retaining set screws holding each scoop in. For the life of me I can't see where these are. Are they situated around the headlamp bowl or in some other fiendishly hidden spot.
This is obviously payback for feeling smug about the rear bumper removal yesterday.

Cheers

Alan

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:35 pm

Details in here: http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2006&start=40

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:35 pm

ALAN COCHRANE wrote:Hello Again

I'm now in the process of removing the front bumpers and have hit a snag with the Sugar Scoops.
Both the Haynes and workshop manual mention three retaining set screws holding each scoop in. For the life of me I can't see where these are. Are they situated around the headlamp bowl or in some other fiendishly hidden spot.
This is obviously payback for feeling smug about the rear bumper removal yesterday.

Cheers

Alan

Look inside the bonnet and you will see the headlamp bowls. About 2" away from them you should see 3 nuts or maybe bolts. The wire that goes into the headlamp bowl should be clipped to the top set screw.

Dave

ALAN COCHRANE · Post by **ALAN COCHRANE** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 7:24 pm

Thanks again Dave. After a cup of tea and some lunch I went back to the garage and had a fresh look and came to the same conclusion. Sugar scoops now out along with the front bumpers. What other car do you have to dismantle the headlights and take out the fuel tank just to remove the bumpers! The joys of owning an E-Type.
Anyway I've now got to rummage in the attic for a box big enough to post all the chrome work to the chrromer's

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 7:45 pm

ALAN COCHRANE wrote: What other car do you have to dismantle the headlights and take out the fuel tank just to remove the bumpers! The joys of owning an E-Type.

'Compact packaging' is what allows the E-type to look the way it does. If you want good access get a Morris Marina...

...or a 4.2 onwards E-type. They switched to body studs and access cutaways below the blade to get a spanner on the nuts. Even the dealers must have got fed up.

Pete

ALAN COCHRANE · Post by **ALAN COCHRANE** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:12 pm

David

Thanks for the link. I was puzzled by the vague instructions in the manuals concerning the three set screws securing the sugar scoops. I initially thought they were accessed from inside the headlight aperture. As your link states it's a very strange arrangement you see when the scoops are out.
Each bumper mounting hole cut in the bonnet is at least 2" wide, presumably to allow for the variation in bracket positions.
The link also throws up some other anomalies on my car. The obvious one being the wrong securing screws on the lenses, which I'll try and fix. You don't mention what type of screw is correct for fitting the chrome light units to the bonnet-slot or philips?
The other one is the securing bolts for the centre console. I only have one on the top right of each speaker panel with no other securing points on the frame to add further bolts. I can see why you would use knurled knobs though. In the event of a blown fuse I would have to unscrew these and drop the radio console surround to allow the instrument panel to swing forward. No tools required other than your fingers with the knobs fitted. I could not get the instrument panel to swing forward with the console in place despite hours trying to adjust them. I'll definitely be ordering those.
I also have black plastic dashpot damper tops and no tags on the float chambers. I'll check the damper lengths to make sure they are the correct length. Plenty to keep me busy and the wallet permanently light then.

Cheers

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:52 pm

Alan

The simple rule with the 3.8's is everything should be slotted or hex - cross heads were on the 4.2's. Probably a soft cut off where they migrated across on the later cars but as yours is a '61 ....................

Slippery slope because you then get into the flanged cup washers and Parker Kalon screws! But just as easy to get it right with a bit of research than do it wrong. Just study the J30 SPC and read the text associated with the pretty pictures; tells you all you need to know.

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The 'E' Type Forum

S1 REAR LIGHTS

#1 S1 REAR LIGHTS

#2 Re: S1 REAR LIGHTS

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#6 Re: Front Bumpers

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