Loose wheel???

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:54 pm

Ummh, bit puzzled and a lot upset after taking the rear wheels off to do some spannering on the IRS. I put my near side rear wheel back on and cannot get it to tighten on the cone before the spinner goes tight. Now this is a brand new wheel and a brand new spinner and hub. I had not noticed this before but as I have been building the car I have never really tightened it up before. The other side did tighten up ok. To be honest I was pooped and had no energy to investigate further but wondered if my new hubs or wheels are not compatible. Could the new spinner been bottoming before the wheel hits the cone? Anyone come across this before? Help a poor tired old man rest easy!

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:51 pm

That's a strange one. Have you tried using the spinner off the front? Or one of the other wheels to eliminate both. That would only leave the spline hub. BTW I WA'd you.......You doing the Dering Arms tomorrow?

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:54 pm

Hi Lee, yes will be there before 12. TBH I was too tired to spend any more time on it having taken the rear shocks off and removed the spacers working in the floor. I will have a go with another spinner as you say. See y tomorrow.

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:44 am

The repro spinners are dismal - wrong shape, size, weight, stampings, logo and machining. Try an original spinner.

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:01 pm

Ah, right. That's all I need ! Will report back. Thx. Andrew

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 9:31 pm

Never did follow this up properly, but noticed that there is a little bit of play of the wheel on the hubs when the spinners are tight. All parts are new. Any comments appreciated.

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:09 pm

Are you sure that the play is wheel on hub, and not hub on driveshaft? It can be a little hard to tell.
If the bearing endfloat is out or the big nut on the end of the driveshaft is loose there will be play. The nut needs 120ftlb of torque which is a good solid pull on a breaker bar.

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:55 pm

It was on all wheels and on the front it was clear to see the wheels moved the disc did not! I will try the old spinners on and see whether they tighten the wheels up. David has mentioned the new spinners are not quite right so maybe this is the issue.

jag68 · Post by **jag68** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 4:14 pm

Andrew I don't know what size of wheels and tires you are using but if they are oversize you can have a problem at full droop where the inside of the tire comes up against the bump stop and prevents the wheel from fully seating on the hub, despite pounding on the knockoff. Tighten everything up at full droop and see if you can turn the wheel. If it's rubbing you have your problem. When the wheel goes up into the fender well when weight is placed on it the bump stop fits into the lace area of the wheel and ceases to be a problem.

Terry Sturgeon

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:26 pm

Thank you Terry. I have removed the bump stops but will check for any issues. I think the spinners bottom out on the thread before they push the wheel back tight on the taper on the hub. Replacement parts once more. Whilst, if this is correct, there is no operational effect from this, I am sure a lose wheel will increase wear in due course

adam · Post by **adam** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 7:52 pm

I had the same problem with repro spinners. I had to machine out the spinners at the top inside to allow spinners to tighten fully.

Adam

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Sat Feb 28, 2015 10:41 pm

andrewh wrote:Whilst, if this is correct, there is no operational effect...

What on earth makes you think that? Read up the Rudge splined hub design and see if you change your mind.

tinworm · Post by **tinworm** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:37 am

Another fix would be to shave a small amount from the end of the splined hub. Repro wheels and hubs could also be at fault - not just the spinners.

Regards Barrie

adam · Post by **adam** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:44 am

Place a small piece off blu tac inside top of spinner, tighten up to see if its bottoming out it should leave a witness mark.

Adam

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:37 pm

Will check it out again and report back. Thx chaps

jag68 · Post by **jag68** » Sun Mar 01, 2015 11:50 pm

Hi Andrew
The rubbing problem can also - actually more likely, occur on the bump stop mount as opposed to the rubber. It should be easy to measure the depth of the threaded portion of the knock off, and compare to a working one. I'd do that for you but sadly I'm stuck in Palm Springs in the heat and sun for a few more weeks!

Terry Sturgeon[/list]

Post by **Heuer** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:32 am

Everything you need to know about spinners: viewtopic.php?t=5015&highlight=spinners

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:50 am

ok I still have these lose wheels. I have tried the original spinner and it appears to tighten the wheels up a bit but since the wheels has been chaffing agains the taper of the hub these are both messed up a bit with paint from the wheels on this parts. Maybe that's the problem that the wheels, were painted on the cone where they should not have been? Either way, I am not enjoying the ride quality with a knocking wheel on the hub. Just cant quite suss which is incorrect, the wheel, the spinner or the hubs. My MOT guy spotted it as well, and we both felt sure its not hub tightness play its wheel on hub play. Never come across this one before and don't really want to pay out for new parts that are already new! thoughts chaps?

edit

I have now checked some measurements. And guess what the spinners are way off the measurements of the originals? !!! ??? why oh why does this happen? Anyway, I guess that now means I have worn my new hubs and wheels having driven the car on the road. Who will pay for that I wonder?

Anyway I have some photos to post up now and would appreciate all you wire wheel experts comments one whether you feel the differences in the measurements are definitely the problemm

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 12:03 pm

the above photo is the original spinner and as you can see it tightens onto the hub 2 mm plus more than the repro

if you measure the inside of the spinner the original spinner has a depth as in the following photo of 31.05mm the replica spinner is 27.11 Not good and hence why my wheels don't lock up. Can anyone measure a new spinner from anywhere other than SNG please?

Post by **mgcjag** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 12:10 pm

Hi Andrew...so reading back through your posts with a new wheel and spinner the wheels are loose.....and with a new wheel and an original spinner the wheel is still loose......to me that points to the new wheel as the problem....do u have any original wheel u can try, or someone close who can loan u one..then u can try both your new and old spinners... Re your measurement of the spinner its not just the depth of the tread but also the depth and angle of the recess that the wheel sits into that needs to be taken into account ...Steve

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