difficulties to remove front suspension lower ball joint

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rolando38
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#1 difficulties to remove front suspension lower ball joint

Post by rolando38 » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:32 pm

Hello

I have decided to renew the front suspension, as several rubbers are absent (ball joint gaiters) or damaged (ie torsion bar)
I successfully replaced the torsion bar but as I have dismantled the lower ball joint, I can't remove the ball joint itself
hile wishbone is lifted with a post with car on the lift, I'm trying to praise with a G-clamp, but so far to no avail
I am doing the right gesture ?

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2+2 1970

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mgcjag
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#2

Post by mgcjag » Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:08 pm

Hi Ronaldo....split the lower wishbone from the ballpoint first then remove the ball joint, move the lower part of your clamp to upder the wishbone where the wood block is, best to put the nut back on the thread...when it separates it goes with a bang and the nut just holds things in place...possibly the clamp won't work and you will need a ball joint separator. . All the best Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#3

Post by rolando38 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:08 am

thanks Steve

will try tonight
I misst he separator tool, though, might borrow one at my local mechanic
2+2 1970

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osgii
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#4

Post by osgii » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:50 am

Buy one, you'll use it more often than you think!
And you will need space to access the ball, so you'll have to remove that piece of wood on the right of your picture. I'm using SpanSet to keep compression on the torsion bar

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1E35547

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#5

Post by abowie » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:07 pm

Every E type owner should have one.

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Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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#6

Post by abowie » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:09 pm

To improve access to the bottom ball joint, remove the steering arm ball joint and upper wishbone ball joints first.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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#7

Post by abowie » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:13 pm

And use the XJ6 sealed bottom ball joints when you put it back together.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-JAGUAR-XJ ... 0101901565
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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christopher storey
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#8

Post by christopher storey » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:58 pm

I think Andrew means the XJ40 type sealed ball joints. I do not think these are quite the same as the ones he provided the link to

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#9

Post by rolando38 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:40 am

thanks for advice
I already have bought the replacement (non sealed) Barratt kit , and I'm not even certain I should change the balls themselves, probably only the cups and rubbers (mine is missing anyway) as:
1/ I fear the forged steel might not be of the same quality as original
2/ they do not seem used at all

and I'll have to get that tool !
2+2 1970

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#10

Post by JagWaugh » Tue Aug 25, 2015 8:15 am

Measure the originals and compare to the replacements supplied... you don't want to be out and about with mismatched balls.

I personally just fit the later sealed ones, youthful balls are worth having.

Andrew

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#11

Post by rolando38 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:55 pm

JagWaugh wrote:... youthful balls are worth having...
at some stage you wish you could renew more than just the balls :D
2+2 1970

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#12

Post by rolando38 » Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:32 pm

well after a tiring battle, I could finally remove the lower ball joint
this couldn't be done with my friend's tool, which proved useless (too large, not long enough)
If someone could indicate the "right" tool ref and source for this job, I'd be grateful
Image

I had to stick to my G-clamp plus a persuader on top of the clamp :mrgreen:

I didn't change the ball itself, though: guess which one is new and which one is old ?
Image


it took me even more time to get the gaiter correctly fit with the retaining circular clip
but at last it's there

Image

now time for the brakes, the main piston seems beyond repair, I ordered stainless steel one; I wonder what is the coating (chrome ?) of the original ones (if any ?)

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2+2 1970

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#13

Post by rolando38 » Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:23 pm

does this ball joint extractor tool make the job for our E types ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/450711B-Heavy ... 4181cb6b86
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#14

Post by mgcjag » Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:47 pm

Hi Ronaldo.....hard to tell, but looks like it should be OK. . Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

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#15

Post by rolando38 » Sat Aug 29, 2015 5:38 pm

thanks

I'm tackling the upper ball joint now, and without the right tool, so far no success in removing it

all that job is for being able to put back a rubber gaiter really (and therefore correctly grease them) , because there doesn't seem to be any other damge like play or
2+2 1970

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#16

Post by abowie » Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:55 pm

rolando38 wrote:does this ball joint extractor tool make the job for our E types ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/450711B-Heavy ... 4181cb6b86
I have a selection of them in different sizes and types. I use different ones for different ball joints depending on access. This one is good for the top:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BALL-JOINT-SP ... 4ad37c6545

They're cheap and useful. I also have a set of the simple "fork" style ones that you can use with a hammer when things get desperate.

In my view you can never have too many tools.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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#17

Post by abowie » Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:07 pm

BTW, the way you use these splitters is as follows:

Make sure there is NO tension on the ball joint; use a jack etc.
Position the splitter so that the force it exerts is DIRECTLY along the axis of the ball joint bolt. You may need to tap the fork section of the splitter in around the boot with a hammer to achieve this.
Tighten it up as tight as you can.
THEN, hit the SIDE of the wishbone or steering arm (NOT the ball) sharply with a STEEL hammer. If you can hit both sides of it simultaneously between 2 hammers this is even better. The shock of the blow should pop the joint out.
Keep going until you succeed. Keep the splitter correctly positioned and tight.
If you REALLY get stuck (unusual) heat the joint with propane or oxy/acetylene.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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#18

Post by rolando38 » Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:18 pm

it finally came nicely

Image

Image

with the help of this tool (plus the pursuader)

Image


the "scissors" tool could not be inserted , not enough space
2+2 1970

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