Scissor lift ...lift points

[JagWaugh]

Andrew,

You can use the scissor lift to lift just one end of the car, no problem at all - look at the construction of the scissor and fixed end. You need to keep an eye out that the Body/exhaust at the other end doesn't contact the floor, and that the car can't roll (set the parking brake/engage a gear), as well as watching that the location of the fixed pivot/weight can't overbalance/tilt the lift. Quite useful in some cases (checking if the fuel gauge moves, finding water leaks), or even just to get an initial peek at the frame/hardpoints/resilient mounts to decide where you want to lift.

The Garage I normally work at has scissor lifts let into the floor, these are slightly different from the inexpensive ones in that 1) they are fixed to the floor, and 2) they lift almost 2m, and 3) they are flush with the floor surface. If I were installing a scissor lift in a new build Garage I would definitely recess the lift into the floor - not having the crossbars in the way is worth the 10cm you lose in lift.

For MOST cars, particularily modern ones) we use a set of hard closed cell foam pads located under the sills, where the OEM hard points for jacking are (Keep an eye out for skirts and such). The foam gives just enough that the fold sets in and positively locates, and the weight is diistributed over a larger contact area. Wood and hard rubber blocks will sometimes split, and because they don't have any "give" the weight is ALL concentrated where they make contact.

MGC:
Scaffold pads would only solve part of the problem with the Healey, which is twofold: 1) getting the car onto the lift without scraping the exhaust, and 2) once the wheels are fore and aft of the lift, just being able to reach in and locate the pads under a hard Point. The Healey's ground clearance is about the 1/8" more than the height of the lift on the exhaust side, but the hard points on the frame are about 4" above the lowest point of the exhaust. My solution is to make 4 wood pedestals, 2 with lead in ramps. This will allow me to get the car up onto the ramp without the exhaust scraping, and since the car is then sitting with the wheels on the 4 pedestals I have some space between the lift and the Frame/exhaust to be able to reach in and place pads under the hard Points.

By the way... we tried out the bracket things that hook into the crossbar to allow you to move the lift.... one of the plates is welded on backwards so the slot points in the wrong direction. Mind you, they did get the other 3 welded in correctly. sigh...

[andrewh]

I have just used my scissor for removing the engine and box and also the IRS. I short it makes the job a doddle , possibly only surpassed by a 2 post which of course does not suit everyone. Also, this has been mentioned here , be careful , once the engine and box is out the weight is very biased to the rear with the IRS still in. Highly recommended .

[andrewh]

[PeterCrespin]

Never mind the E-type, I'd guess half a scissor lift would be a great way of working on the 1940s ex-WD M20!

[andrewh]

Ah yes Peter. Well spotted. Bought for ?60 by my Dad in 1977. Restored by me in 2007. Blew the tyre up today as well! Nice old bike

Here it is

http://www.wdbsa.nl/visitors%20bikes/17 ... ngland.jpg

[PeterCrespin]

I had one briefly but had a 16H Norton for longer. Better get back on topic before people complain? :-)

[david muir]

re lifting cars............have been searching for some of the 'closed cell foam blocks' that were mentioned in the thread-anyone know of a source in UK?
Thanks, D