seat removal series II

Technical advice Q&A

Topic author
skodajag
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 5:50 pm
Location: 222
Great Britain

#1 seat removal series II

Post by skodajag » Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:17 am

How do you remove the seats on a series II, without removing the seat runners from the body? The manual says lift out the seat cushion to access the bolts - presumable applicable to series I. Anyhow, my seat cushions don't lift out.
All advice gratefully received.

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Heuer
Administrator
Posts: 15153
Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:29 pm
Location: Nottinghamshire
Great Britain

#2

Post by Heuer » Sat Jul 02, 2011 12:05 pm

That refers to the early S1 bucket seats. For later seats slide them as far forward as possible, remove the two rear cross head screws at the rear of the runner and you can then slide the whole seat/runner backwards off the mushroom shaped retainers at the front. Check out the thread in the Upgrades Forum on fitting MX5 seats which has some good photos.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX

Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
skodajag
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 5:50 pm
Location: 222
Great Britain

#3

Post by skodajag » Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:16 pm

Thanks David for getting back so promptly. The only screws/ bolts I can see with the seat slid fully forward are the two bolts securing the runner to the floor. I was reconciled to removing the whole seat with runners but of course the front bolts securing the runners to the floor are inaccessible. Nor can I, with the rear runner bolts removed, moved the seat back far enough to slide off the runners. It's mystery!! :roll:

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

kingzetts
Posts: 745
Joined: Thu May 15, 2008 9:33 am
Location: Worcester UK
Great Britain

#4

Post by kingzetts » Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:49 pm

You remove the seats as follows;

a) move seat fully forward on runners
b) unfasten the bolt which can now be seen at the rear of each runner holding the runner to the floor
c) move the entire seat and runner assembly rearwards. The front of each runner is retained by a sort of bayonet fitting, and once the rnner bottom rails move rearward far enough to clear the bayonet catch (about one inch) the entire seat/runner assmebly can then be lifted up and out.

You may (probably will) find that the runner front ends are stuck in the bayonet catches due to rust, dirt, etc. You may need to be reasonably forceful. Concentrate on getting the runner which has the locking lever on it out first as the other runner has no positive locking between the upper and lower parts of the runner. You may need to locate the nose of the runners by feel with a long drift and hammer them rearwards to free them.

Look here for pictures of the bayonet fixings (also known as mushroom bolts) and the underneath of 4.2 seats.

http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Cheers
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Topic author
skodajag
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2010 5:50 pm
Location: 222
Great Britain

#5

Post by skodajag » Sat Jul 02, 2011 2:21 pm

Thanks David and John - after some heaving, swearing and jiggling and more swearing they are out.

Incidentally I don't think I've ever had a classic where the seat moved properly on its runners. This time I'm determined they will!

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Heuer
Administrator
Posts: 15153
Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:29 pm
Location: Nottinghamshire
Great Britain

#6

Post by Heuer » Sat Jul 02, 2011 2:38 pm

skodajag wrote:Incidentally I don't think I've ever had a classic where the seat moved properly on its runners. This time I'm determined they will!
Highly unlikely! The runners are pressed together and are separated by nylon rollers. Several things happen - the tracks rust, the rollers develop flats, the entire runner bends and they get clogged up with dirt, carpet and grease. I gave up in the end and bought new runners but let us know how you get on. You can buy new nylon rollers although getting the two slides apart is very difficult.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX

Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Bernie2015
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:30 pm
Location: Devon
Great Britain

#7

Post by Bernie2015 » Mon Dec 14, 2015 6:22 pm

Im having trouble removing my driver seat on a series 2 2+2. I have removed the 2 bolts at the rear but the runner on one side appears to be welded to the floor? Any help would be much appreciated.

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

mgcjag
Moderator
Posts: 8983
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:15 pm
Location: Ludlow Shropshire
Great Britain

#8

Post by mgcjag » Mon Dec 14, 2015 7:17 pm

Hi Bernie...if you can see a weld you will have to cut it out.....if you are just assuming its welded then it may just be tight/corroded...the instructions above are correct for seat removal
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

chrisvine
Posts: 363
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 4:27 pm
Location: Windsor
Contact:
Great Britain

#9

Post by chrisvine » Mon Dec 14, 2015 10:21 pm

Once the screws securing the rear runners have been removed, it might help to get someone to lift the seat at the rear while you use a drift on the lower part of the front of the runner.

Not sure how they would have been able to weld it in situ with all the surrounding trim.
1969 S2 OTS, Elise S1

Restoration Blog : http://etype.chrisvine.com/

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

rolando38
Posts: 349
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Grenoble, french Alps
France

#10

Post by rolando38 » Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:23 am

I also thought my seats were welded but it's only appearance
in fact a good thump rearwards should release them from their "catch" once rear screws are removed
2+2 1970

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Bernie2015
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:30 pm
Location: Devon
Great Britain

#11

Post by Bernie2015 » Tue Dec 15, 2015 8:14 am

Many thanks guys will give it a thump and see what happens, invaluable advice.

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Bernie2015
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:30 pm
Location: Devon
Great Britain

#12

Post by Bernie2015 » Tue Dec 15, 2015 12:23 pm

Thanks will give it a go

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


Bernie2015
Posts: 285
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2015 4:30 pm
Location: Devon
Great Britain

#13

Post by Bernie2015 » Wed Dec 16, 2015 5:17 pm

Thanks guys I will hit it with a hammer quite soon

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

Sjmmarsh
Posts: 108
Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 3:08 pm
Location: Stamfordshire
Contact:
Great Britain

#14

Post by Sjmmarsh » Fri Dec 18, 2015 5:20 pm

I read this post with interest as I needed to take the seats out on my S3 2+2 today. It was really easy:

1. Push seat back - remove the two bolts at the front of the runners (I used a 1/2" offset ring spanner). The hardest one was the one next to the transmission tunnel as you only get to turn the nut one flat at a time.

2. Push seat forward. Remove the two screws holding the rear of the runners.

3. Take seat out of the car.

A previous owner had taken the seats out at sometime as one of the screw heads was a bit rounded off, but all screws and bolts came out with minimal effort.

I wish all jobs were this easy.... Like getting the headrests out of the seat back!

Steve
Steve
1973 S3 v12 2+2 1S52113BW

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic