Just broke down help needed

TrevS · Post by **TrevS** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:25 am

Hi all

I am sat on the side of the road as car was driving along and spluttered and cut out. Trying to start again caused backfire and cut out second time. Car was running cold as only 1/2 mile from my house. Any suggestions what problem might be and what to check first.

Help much needed

Trevor

David Oslo · Post by **David Oslo** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:06 pm

When did you drive last time? Is this first run of the year? If so I would start to check fuel supply (full tank Y/N, filter clogged Y/N, fuel coming through to carbs Y/N), before starting on ignition side of things.

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 3:01 pm

Sounds like fuel problem. Check the tank sump filter because after sitting over winter all the sediment/rust gathers there and as soon as you start driving it stirs things up. Having said that leaving the car to stand for 20 minutes should allow the sediment to settle.

TrevS · Post by **TrevS** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 4:52 pm

Hi all

Well home now with the car back in the garage. After a few hours of trying to fix the car on the side of the road we eventually had to get the car towed.

What had happened was that the car was spluttering and then cut out on a slight incline just 300yds from my house. After checking under the car there was petrol dripping underneath so my first thought was a broken fuel line somewhere. While trying to find the source we found that the problem was one of the carbs leaking thanks to a loose nut which was an easy fix. Then we noticed that the vacuum line rubber elbow joint had snapped in half and then finally after neither of those things got the car running we found there was no spark. Seems it is the points as a quick adjustment got the car temporarily running but it wouldn't stay on.

So a few jobs to tackle this week in double checking all the fuel lines and carbs, getting a new rubber joint for the vacuum line elbow and then checking the points and HT leads.

The car hasn't been sat for a long time either. It was out for a drive maybe 5 days ago as I've been refitting my dash after having the speedometer serviced and it drove perfectly so must be just one of those unfortunate classic car things.

Also going to look at changing to an electronic ignition. Has anyone on here done the conversion, how easy is it to do and and how much does it typically cost?

Here is a picture of the car on the back of the tow truck. Sure this is a familiar sight for a few owners

Trev

tim wood · Post by **tim wood** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:03 pm

Electronic ignition, I've tried them all.
Lumenition, I've still got it under the bench
1-2-3 system , sold it because I couldn't work out which setting was best

I now have the full system from Ray Livingston using megajolt. Superb and undoubtedly the best. Problem is he doesn't supply any more.

I think others have sorted a similar system using parts from Trigger Wheels.

Tim

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:28 pm

Sorry to hear of your problems. Could be a stuck float or valve ? Tap the carb bowl with a wooden handled screwdriver. If you had not run the car successfully 5 days ago I would say the dreaded ethanol is the fault . I have contact points on my original distributor but often fit Petronix Ignitor which is a contact less module. Made a big difference to Rover V8 s which have only one set of points for 8 cylinders. That's about the limit and any wear on th distributor or points can mess the spark up badly. You may consider fitting one but keep your base plate, condenser and points in the car as a get you home fix if the electronic module fails ever

Nickleback · Post by **Nickleback** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:48 pm

I also converted mine to electronic ignition, first step was to have the old distributor fully professionally rebuilt, then added Pertronix electronic ignition complete with new carbon HT leads & new plugs - well pleased & highly recommended :)

TrevS · Post by **TrevS** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 6:01 pm

Any ideas where to get Pertronix from? Also what model number do I need for a 4.2 series 1?

Thanks

Trevor

andrewh · Post by **andrewh** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 6:16 pm

Speak to Martin Jay at Distributor Doctor. He is a nice chap and very knowledgeable

Nickleback · Post by **Nickleback** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 6:21 pm

Here you go, they should be able to advise you
http://pertronixeurope.com/contact.php

Likewise, I did mine through Martin, the Distributor Doctor who did an excellent distributor rebuild

caveman · Post by **caveman** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:12 pm

Hi Trevor,

I purchased the following from Matt Rosa at Ponderosa Mustang www.Ponderosamustang.com in Pensacola, Florida. Even with exchange rate it was cheaper to purchase from the USA.

I'd highly recommend a red rotor arm from Martin at Distributor Doctor (?18 for 2 incl post).

Fitting instructions are simple to follow and works nicely with Lucas sports coil. I fitted my own and can say it's easily within the scope of most to complete.

Your car looks stunning in silver! Good luck.

cactusman · Post by **cactusman** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:33 pm

Sorry to hear your tail of woe....bet the tow man had a smile though.....

I dumped d my points and fitted a power spark module. Fits where the points are and takes ten mins to fit. No mods to the dissy needed so ten mins back to points if you have an issue.

My module has not missed a beat in three years although I carry the points and condenser in the boot....just in case. Costs about ?35 incl a rotor arm.

Www.simonbbc.com

My MGB has a lumenition system that has worked perfectly for 23 years..

64etype · Post by **64etype** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:02 pm

TrevS wrote:

Also going to look at changing to an electronic ignition. Has anyone on here done the conversion, how easy is it to do and and how much does it typically cost?

Trev

I just completed installation of an Allison/Crane XR700 which had been sitting on my parts shelf for 28 years. A friend also has this system and says it's been without fault for many years. Optical trigger. Had to add a ballast resister to accommodate the vintage electronics in my kit, but Crane also make a version that works with the internally ballasted coil in the early E-types. Anyway, my 3.8 is now wired similar to an S2. I mounted the electronic control box (with Velcro) inside the cockpit (left forward top of right side footwell). Wires to the optical trigger and coil pass through the hole for the choke cable. I mounted the ballast resister to a frame bolt adjacent to the starter. Cost of the system is in the $85-100 (U.S.) range. Simple installation but not 10 minutes either...probably 2 hours once I settled on placement of the components...although I took extra care to hide wire runs, etc. I'm going to purchase a spare and prep it as a quick plug-in and go in the event this one malfunctions.

TrevS · Post by **TrevS** » Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:21 pm

Great thanks guys, the Pertronix kit seems to be a good choice so I've sent an email to Martin at Distributor Doctor to get them to supply me all the parts I need for the installation.

Thanks for the help everyone

Trevor

TrevS · Post by **TrevS** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 11:23 am

Hi all

Well got all the parts I need to convert to an electronic ignition this week

What else will I need to fit it. Do I need a timing gun etc? I am hoping just to get the car running even if not too well so I can get it to my local mechanic for a once over and adjust timing etc

Trev

Post by **mgcjag** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 11:41 am

Hi Trev......when i replaced my points with pertronix i just removed the points and put the unit straight in....you may need to enlarge the hole in the pertronix plate slightly to fit....car fired up straightaway.........you will need to modify the dissy shroud to fit the wires.....i purchased a new one and carry the old and points just in case.......well worth getting one of the dissy caps from the dist doctor very good quality

PeterCrespin · Post by **PeterCrespin** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 2:09 pm

Got to love that tablecloth. It has cheered up a dull Maryland morning. Looks like a stage prop from Mad Men. All together now;

"She wore an itsy-bitsy, teeny-weeny, yellow polka dot bikini...."

Post by **mgcjag** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 3:21 pm

Blimy Pete....you on the wacky backy... :

SEJohnson95 · Post by **SEJohnson95** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 3:36 pm

It all started with the twin thermostat argument, he's gone downhill from there. I can't possibly imagine what's to come...

caveman · Post by **caveman** » Sat Apr 30, 2016 3:40 pm

That's all you need Trev.
The two wires that run from inside the distributor to your coil should push straight through the semi-circular rubber grommet that sits atop the distributor and under the cap.
As Steve says, keep old points and condenser for your toolkit as its always a simple re-fit if ever you need it. You will find your car runs fine from the word go with no further timing required.
My red rotor was a very tight fit so I used a very small amount of oil to assist.

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
	Hide post links

The 'E' Type Forum

Just broke down help needed

#1 Just broke down help needed

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10

#11

#12 Ign

#13

#14

#15

#16

#17

#18

#19

#20