S1 2+2 wiring loom questions

[Durango2k]

All,

I have some wiring loom questions which the A3 colour printed wiring loom poster which I have does not answer (yes, its the correct one for my car):

On the front right side, the loom ends. I have found:

- long white with black strip and oily spade angled connector: am pretty sure this is for the oil pressure sensor.

- a cloth end with a green-light blue, that goes up to the water temp sensor, because a remain is still on it. The other is a thin white with black strip. No idea. Maybe to the other end of the coil (see next) ?

- a cloth end with a white one- goes to one side of the coil, and iirc another white with a black stripe- to the dissi I think, it only has one spade ?

- Front left edge of radiator: a green thick one, and a red/black one. They do have their counterparts for the radiator fan motor. And a thick red single cloth one, which has an angled spade connector- I think goes into the otter switch ? Manual shows otter switch and fan motor connected in series so that puzzled me a bit. I will try to find out wether electricity is present on one of the thick ones, and earth the otter manually, if the fan then comes up, solved. Is the water reservoir earthed somewhere with a wire ?

More to follow later- I have to dig through the passenger footwell next. I can't find a place in the plan where it describes this place, some wires are plugged together here for the right rear end of the car. Maybe switch on light, test-connect, and see on the cluster what happens.

This car still has the original 60's Lucas Fuses fitted, all intact. I think its a waste to burn them trying- would you change them for new ones (or a screw, slow blow, 1482 Ampere....) ?

Carsten

[christopher storey]

Carsten : as far as testing is concerned, the best thing to do is to get yourself ( if you do not already have one ) an old style 12v DC battery charger with a cutout , and use this as a current source for all your low current testing . Such a charger will only pass about 4 amperes , which is fine for testing and even if you get a dead short will immediately cut out , thus protecting both the wiring and the fuses . I used this to test each circuit as I connected it

I should perhaps add that although I had success with this on 3 rewires, a Professor of Physics on a JEC seminar I went on was horrified , and said one should not do this because a charger did not in fact produce pure DC but a mixture of AC and DC ! . He did not explain, however, how this was damaging to wiring and bulbs

[Durango2k]

Hi Chris,

I do have either a 6V Ctek (for my TA from '54), and a 12 V CTek 12 Volts 7 Amps.

Maybe either of them does work- I got your idea, if they don't work I will source an automat to drop out at below 4 amps, and use the main battery.

A fast early cutout in the main supply is a clever idea....

Carsten

[PeterCrespin]

A fast early cutout in the main supply is a clever idea....

Chris was referring to the mains charger I think.

Your Jag has 8 fast replaceable cut-outs.

Your wiring guesses were all correct I think, at least as far as ignition etc. wires. Not sure why you need to guess though, since that white/white-black circuit is surely shown on almost every Lucas wiring diagram for fifty years and more? The oil, temp and fan / Otter wires ditto?

Pete

[David Oslo]

This may also be useful if stuck on the big diagram. A referance system for all the colour codings.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... ng_colours

[Durango2k]

Ok,

I managed to repair what was missing under the bonnet. I am now also sure that the otter switch had an earth spade connector- there's a black wire for a spade. And Haynes shows a pic where you could guess it from.

Now, I am hunting special things:

Inside the rear lights, there's a green base wire for each bulb. The inner bulb is a twin one (Citroen used 21/5W, Jaguar 21/6 as per Haynes ?).

Are the inner assemblies available ? I need the short wire, the spring, the pertinax base plate, and the rivet on the end. I do have 2 complete single ones. And maybe one twin one.

SNG only lists complete cases. No smaller Parts...

---edit 19:50- if you look at SCParts, part no 9073, its called "contact plate, twin wires, for stop/tail", 10 pounds:

http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/contact- ... -9713.html

Does anyone know wether this is what I need ? It sounds so...

I found a red wire to switch on with the main light switch- so thats the main power for the rear lights. I also found 2 wires to switch on with the key, so that should be fuel pump plus one yet unknown ? Diagramm says W, I found a W one, so I?ll take that.

What I got to work for now: the wiper motor works, at 2 speeds (yet the shutoff contact does not work, but I can switch them of by hand when in correct position, so it does not really matter for now) ! Only the speedo lamp works, but zero other instrument lighting, whatever I try. All fuses intact. The TR4a regulator became worm after 30 minutes, the coil (Bosch 12V was fitted) became warm to hot (points closed), so that seems fine.

Small progress, but progress. Will continue to dig through what was left in the car. No money for new loom, so repair it is.

Carsten

[Durango2k]

Made a few big steps today:

- flashers rear now both work
- wiper motor including stop switch works, stop switch needs a bit of attention,
- fan motor works
- dash lights came back, 2 bulbs missing, it was the switch, after some dozen wiggles it worked and threw out 12 Volts. However, it does not dim- both positions same illumination- will investigate.
- main light switch a bit wobbly on H, mabye take apart and check
- map switch dead, because ground spade fell off. Have to take apart and repair, sadly spade not there, so a wire it will be

Problems:

- Diagram says there should be a red wire for main lights to rear end. Found 2 dead bulbs, replaced, but no red wire. Only a rosee one near the tank vent from the loom, but thats it. It has 1.2 Volts, so, darn, I have to pull the left wiring loom and check for breaks on its way.

- fuse trouble: the fuse no 5 blew (35 lucas original), when I wiggled the main light switch. No idea how or why. Got a 30 amp german fuse, but nothing. After a lot of scratching I found the german fuse is intermittent ! Found another one, 50 Amps, also intermittent but after soldering the rear ends the 50 Amps came back to life. Used it, and after some noises and small arcs, most of the dash was suddenly working. No idea why.
Will get a proper 35A version, and replace the 50, and see.

Carsten

[Durango2k]

This is what I need (in twin contact version, shown is the single one):



Carsten

[christopher storey]

Carsten : your dash problems may well be poor earthing. It may help to run a black wire from a screw on the let down panel to a fastening - any will do - on the bulkhead. Similarly, the two large dials need a black earth wire with a circular terminal to go in each case on one of the securing posts, trapped between the bracket and the knurled nut which holds the bracket on

[Durango2k]

Hi Chris,

Indeed earthing helped a bit, together will a full loading-up of the battery.

The Imp forum came up with this as a repair part:

https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct ... de=010.722

Would you say it might work ?

Carsten

[christopher storey]

I would imagine that it might work, although I think you would need to be careful to see that the metal holder did not create short circuit possibilities. I notice elsewhere that people are now fitting LEDs as rear lights, and this might be another thing to explore

[Durango2k]

Hi Chris,

Of course the metal holder is removed, and only the inards are used. Its the sliding twin-contact disc, the spring and the wires.

Discard the tube...

Then, Iirc, I also need one reflector- I should really try to find a rotten rear light....not easy.

Carsten

[Durango2k]

I have now bought this part from an old imp stop light. 5 pounds incl. Freight for 2 items.

Perfect....

Carsten

[JD-JAG66]

I am also at a loss for the wiring on my S1 2+2.
I downloaded both the wiring diagrams for the series 1 and series 1.5 in an attempt to identify all the wires, but came short on the following 2 issues.
I. Splitting off from the wiper motor loom inside the engine bay, are 3 wires.
A White-Red wire of the starter motor solenoid and 2 other wires twined together one being a Black and Brown (which I believe is for the tach generator C14996, which my engine does not have since it came out of a SIII XJ6, so I will have to get a S2 electronic tachometer) and a Black and (light?) blue wire that i guess also goes to the tach generator but the wiring diagram does not show this. Any suggestions?

II. behind the central gauges panel I have a braided red-green (green-red?) wire with a female spade terminal loose... I presume it could be the wiper park wire, but the connector won't fit over the male connector on the switch.

All help welcome!!!

[Durango2k]

Hi there in Italy,

I will have a look when I am back at my car. The centre red-green goes on the red wire to the dreaded wiper rack contact. Mine was so greasy it did work loosley and with arcing, after a cleanup it works !

The tach pair is a pair which has no comnection to the rest of the car, because the tach generator generates power to drive the needle. Like a bicycle dynamo...

Carsten

[Durango2k]

Just an add - on : I now managed to solve even more puzzles.

Indicator lights in dash (<>) now work, I had to put a front bulb on the 8 pin plug as a test.

Door switches now work. I had to blow 4 Citroen fuses before I found the problem behind the steering wheel. Map light now works.

Stop lights work- have not tested the switch hydraulically because the brakes need to be filled, but when shortened the 21W comes up on both sides.

I only have 2 more wires to identify and get the horns to work. Then it?s done !!!

Will open a separate thread for the final questions...

Carsten

[JD-JAG66]

I should specify a little better which red-green wire I was referring to. I hope the attached picture is clear?
I have no idea where it goes. The "red-green not cloth covered" wire indeed goes to the wiper mechanism and is attached. So it must be something else...