Thank you. That is an interesting thought. SNG also asked me if I changed the pipes so they may have experienced the problem before. I have got hold of a couple of calipers here locally so I am planning to change them and see if it sorts out the problem but if the problem persists I will go to the hose.
Will keep you posted.
Blocking / sticky brakes at 63 3.8 FHC with bellow-type
#21
Restauration project of a serie 1 1963 model OTS now running proudly
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#22
Hi again.
Today I took the calipers on my right front side and worked them until they went quite smoothly. Then I went out and provocet them to get hot. I went home when I felt they started to give resistance. When I got home I jacked it up and found out that I had got it wrong it was blocked ON BOTH FRONT WHEELS. So what is this likely to be - the masterpump?
Today I took the calipers on my right front side and worked them until they went quite smoothly. Then I went out and provocet them to get hot. I went home when I felt they started to give resistance. When I got home I jacked it up and found out that I had got it wrong it was blocked ON BOTH FRONT WHEELS. So what is this likely to be - the masterpump?
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#23
Hi,
Just wanted to update you on this subject which I think is not only something I am struggling with. Since the problem moved from front to back when I changed the pipes on the master cylinders I thought I had it under control obviously being the master pump for the front circuit. I was looking for the red brakefluid with some lubricants being recommended by some on this forum and found that actually the DOT5 fluid has 30% silicon lubricant so I mixed in that with the DOT4 I have already.
Today I took out both master pumps making sure I did not exchange them. Took them apart greased the seals, sanded the one for the front circuit inside. They had already new seal and should have been properly overhaules but you never know. Put it all together again. Increased the clearance on the rod as this may cause the brakes to get on the manual says. I then changed the pipes back so the lower pump again became the front circuit, bleeded them and went for a ride.
Then I felt the brakes started to stick a bit again so I went home. jacked up the car and found the problem still was on the back wheels even though the master cylinder i thought was the problem now had been shifted back to the front wheels. So there went my master cylinder theory. I guess the expression "still confused but on a higher level" fits well to my current state of mind. Now the symptoms actually is spot on what was descriped by the one starting this string.
Right now I am waiting for it to cool down but it seems that it is a pressure building up in the brake system when it goes hot.
This time the pedal is stone hard, the servo belly is not compressed so it is hard to blame the servo. I am not completely sure I got all the air out of the system as I am alone doing this so when it is cooled I will check what happened to the clearance on the rod and bleed more before tesing it again.
Just wanted to update you on this subject which I think is not only something I am struggling with. Since the problem moved from front to back when I changed the pipes on the master cylinders I thought I had it under control obviously being the master pump for the front circuit. I was looking for the red brakefluid with some lubricants being recommended by some on this forum and found that actually the DOT5 fluid has 30% silicon lubricant so I mixed in that with the DOT4 I have already.
Today I took out both master pumps making sure I did not exchange them. Took them apart greased the seals, sanded the one for the front circuit inside. They had already new seal and should have been properly overhaules but you never know. Put it all together again. Increased the clearance on the rod as this may cause the brakes to get on the manual says. I then changed the pipes back so the lower pump again became the front circuit, bleeded them and went for a ride.
Then I felt the brakes started to stick a bit again so I went home. jacked up the car and found the problem still was on the back wheels even though the master cylinder i thought was the problem now had been shifted back to the front wheels. So there went my master cylinder theory. I guess the expression "still confused but on a higher level" fits well to my current state of mind. Now the symptoms actually is spot on what was descriped by the one starting this string.
Right now I am waiting for it to cool down but it seems that it is a pressure building up in the brake system when it goes hot.
This time the pedal is stone hard, the servo belly is not compressed so it is hard to blame the servo. I am not completely sure I got all the air out of the system as I am alone doing this so when it is cooled I will check what happened to the clearance on the rod and bleed more before tesing it again.
Restauration project of a serie 1 1963 model OTS now running proudly
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#24 Re: Blocking / sticky brakes at 63 3.8 FHC with bellow-type
Hi, I updated my restauration log with this but it belongs here too.
I found the problem with that my brakes did not want to realease properly when they got warm. I got very confused in the beginning because first it was RH front wheel so I thought it was the caliper. Then I realized it also was a bit sticky on the LH side so I shifted focus to the master pump. When I changed the pipes from front to rear and the problem moved to the back brakes I was certain I had control. So I opened my front master cylinder (which already was overhauled) and put it all together again. Shifted the pipes back to its original position and expected that now have the problem either shifted back to the front circuit or it was solved. When then the sticky brakes still was at the back circuit a friend working in biology said maybe they are learning just like cells can do.
Anyway, after some more investigation the problem was solved. It was the front master cylinder that caused the problem. Pressure built up inside it when the brake got warm most likely because the seal in the bottom of the piston did not open suffciently to let fluid back to the container. That made the rod push back into the brake paddle box where it probably pushed in the rod of the back cylinder. Anyone still follow? To cut a long story short I bougth two new master cylinders and problem was solved. What I should have done was to investigate whether that seal open by blowing carefully into the exit hole of the master cylinder and see if the bottom seal opened, but that is for next time.
Thanks to you all for help and assistance. Getting there, but slowly.
And by the way to you in UK which I think is many of you, welcome to the outskirt of Europe. It was lonely out here.
I found the problem with that my brakes did not want to realease properly when they got warm. I got very confused in the beginning because first it was RH front wheel so I thought it was the caliper. Then I realized it also was a bit sticky on the LH side so I shifted focus to the master pump. When I changed the pipes from front to rear and the problem moved to the back brakes I was certain I had control. So I opened my front master cylinder (which already was overhauled) and put it all together again. Shifted the pipes back to its original position and expected that now have the problem either shifted back to the front circuit or it was solved. When then the sticky brakes still was at the back circuit a friend working in biology said maybe they are learning just like cells can do.
Anyway, after some more investigation the problem was solved. It was the front master cylinder that caused the problem. Pressure built up inside it when the brake got warm most likely because the seal in the bottom of the piston did not open suffciently to let fluid back to the container. That made the rod push back into the brake paddle box where it probably pushed in the rod of the back cylinder. Anyone still follow?
To cut a long story short I bougth two new master cylinders and problem was solved. What I should have done was to investigate whether that seal open by blowing carefully into the exit hole of the master cylinder and see if the bottom seal opened, but that is for next time. Thanks to you all for help and assistance. Getting there, but slowly.
And by the way to you in UK which I think is many of you, welcome to the outskirt of Europe. It was lonely out here.
Restauration project of a serie 1 1963 model OTS now running proudly
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