Problem with a live ignition without key.

[Simon Bolton]

I have just replaced my alternator with a modern one because of failing bearings and had a weak ignition warning light on permanently(this I now know to be the 3AW relay). I now have a live ignition switch and can start the engine without ignition on so I think there was a problem waiting to emerge. I have identified the live feed to the wrong side of the ignition switch but haven't got a clue where it comes from. Obviously this is impossible to answer on this forum-what I need is a mobile auto electrician who I can trust to sort it out and at the same time smarten up the fuse board and behind dash switch connections. I am in the North Cotswolds....anyone know one?
Many thanks
Simon

[christopher storey]

Simon : is this an S1 4.2 ? If so, your ignition switch should be fed by a brown/red wire from the ammeter which should go to the centre of the 3 terminals at the top of the switch. A double white should run from the terminal nearer to the starter button to 1. the starter button and 2. fuse ( probably nos 5 and 7) . A brown/white wire should run from the side terminal furthest from the starter button to the terminal on the ammeter which has another brown/white attached to it ( this goes to the alternator ) . The single terminal on the lower part of the ignition switch should have a double brown/purple going to it , one to the +ve terminal on the 4TR, and one to the alternator. My guess is that these wires have got transposed somewhere , which is giving you your unswitched feed ( it is probable that the transposition involves the white wire somehow being connected to the brown/red)

I hope this will help.

[Simon Bolton]

Hi Chris(and all of course)
Thanks first of all and you have, I think, highlighted the problem.
My car is a series 1 4.2 2+2 1966. The switch fitted at the moment appears to be(don't want to get it out yet until I am sure of all this) an in line arrangement with two double spades identical to a Lucas S45 (30603). Apparently this is only fitted to the 3.8. What it is doing on my car I cant answer.
Most wires are cloth covered so am guessing amps instead by thickness.
So from left to right
1/
? 17 amps. (has a small black id band round it)(alternator maybe?)
2/ split
1 ? 8amps(rectifier maybe?)
2 ? 17 amps(coil maybe?)
3/
live-assume live feed 35 amps
4/ split
1 live reasonably sure +side ammeter 35 amps
2 live definitely starter button 35 amps

From what you are saying and from supplier lists I believe I should fit the C22258 with three split(double) spades and a single spade.
Sorry not to be more precise but without coloured wires I am floundering a bit. Help
Cheers
Simon

[christopher storey]

Simon : you might try a private message to Heuer because I'm pretty sure he has fitted a modern alt with integrated control unit

Tomorrow I shall get my flap down and try and take some useful pics of the layout for you

[andrewh]

sometimes when the diode fails in the alternator you get a direct feed . Try removing the exciter wire to the alternator . If you loose the ignition feed then you probably have a dicky alternator.