engine on the stand

[265bhp]

question please as I prepare to strip the engine

does this look right ??...I ask this as I am worried that the 4 bolts from the original flywheel which I think are the only means to bolt the block into place might not be strong enough....it is one heck of a weight on the end of the mounting plates..they can only penetrate by around 10-12mm into the block

advice and thoughts please

thanks
Jonathan

[abowie]

Spot on.

[Mark Gordon]

The bolt positions are correct. Just make sure that you use Grade 8 bolts which have the tensile strength required. Like you, I was concerned about the weight suspended off of that long lever arm so I made a support brace for the front which supported the crank pulley until the engine was disassembled then I placed the support underneath the block itself. Belts and suspenders.

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[265bhp]

Hi Andrew..thanks for the quick reply..!..that makes me feel a whole lot better..happy new year to you down there..spent all day in the garage..it's above freezing here but after a full day I wish I had your weather..;)

[265bhp]

Thanks Mark..I was kind of thinking something like that..I will need to check the bolts from the bell housing..not sure they are 8.8 grade...

[Hugo]

You're not going to strip or break the bolts, but the weak spot to my eyes is where the tube is welded onto the rectangular plate that bolts to the block. Don't like that design at all.

[Moeregaard]

I've never liked having that 600-lb lump cantilevered off the stand, so I've always placed a length of 4" X 4" timber between the front of the engine and the stand, per Mark's suggestion. We did it when building a friend's Healey 3000 engine as well. Much better than hearing a loud and expensive crash in the middle of the night.

[richard btype]

Would the weight distribution not be better spread by mounting in the side of the block rather than the end? However might be necessary to make an intermediate mounting plate to provide fixing points...

[Mich7920]

Hi Jonathan,
Don't worry, your stand is stable. I used the same without any problem.
The base is rectangular and not triangular as Mark's one
I didn't used any support, due to the angle of the support tube, the max weight is at the opposit of the crankshaft pulley. Against the tube support.
Put your engine on the stand and do a test trying to make it fall down. Good luck!
But if it help you to sleep, put a support.
I remember the tube pass throught the rectangular plate and is well weld.
There should be no clearance between the support and the block. Put washers also on your 4 bolts and screw them hard.
Always uses the holes to block the rotation when you work. The weight isn't central !
The only thing I changed is the bar to rotate the engine.
I Found it was too short and I replaced it by a long one to have my both hands on it and doing the rotation slowly.
Have fun, it's a pleasure to work with
Mich

[265bhp]

Excellent...thank you all...I will order some grade 8.8 bolts tomorrow..

Mich...when you say no gap between support and block...do you mean I should have the square tubes flat and touching the back of the engine block...?..or the rectangular plate directly touching the block..?

Thanks
Jonathan

[Mich7920]

Hi Jonathan
Your mounting is right don't change it. Just be sure the bolts are tightened hard to make a single block with the rotative support.
Mich

[265bhp]

Hi Mich
That sounds good, many thanks :)

[abowie]

Excellent...thank you all...I will order some grade 8.8 bolts tomorrow..


Jonathan

Pedantry I know, but 8.8 is metric.
You need 3/8" UNF grade 8.

[265bhp]

Excellent...thank you all...I will order some grade 8.8 bolts tomorrow..


Jonathan

Pedantry I know, but 8.8 is metric.
You need 3/8" UNF grade 8.

...didn't know that....