Paint Finishes
#1 Paint Finishes
Can anyone tell me if the black mechanical parts on a series 1 were finished in gloss or satin?. Also should the cage that holds the IRS be powder coated or painted?. Thanks Justin
Justin. 1966 Series 1. 4.2 E Type. DHC.
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#2 Re: Paint Finishes
I think you will find the information you require here: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=951
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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richard btype
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#3 Re: Paint Finishes
A priceless piece of information stowed away in the archive!

3.8 FHC Chassis no: 860403
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
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#4 Re: Paint Finishes
Really interesting information that i will be able to refer to later
The only problem is, it doesn't appear to mention the IRS cage or associated parts.
Thank you.
The only problem is, it doesn't appear to mention the IRS cage or associated parts.
Thank you.
Justin. 1966 Series 1. 4.2 E Type. DHC.
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richard btype
- Posts: 593
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- Location: Hertfordshire

#5 Re: Paint Finishes
From my observation the Irs cage seemed to be what appeared to be the industry standard at the time of a 'not very shiny' gloss black, I don't recall that 'satin black' was around back in the day! I have not noticed that a primer existed - almost shooting black paint directly onto metal. I would say the same for the radius arm linkages. But did they use a primer?
I tried to replicate the above a couple of years ago by shot blasting the radius arm links and immediately painting satin black rattle can without a primer, they very soon became rusty again (for apparently all paints are porous) and so have recently tried again - shot blast followed by POR metal ready and finally applied POR 15 - basically because I've not been a great fan of powder coating, also it is something one can do in the workshop and avoid a 50 mile round trip - twice of course!
Most restoration companies these days seem to opt for satin black powder coating, my local powder coaters fit rubber bungs to the drilled holes to avoid them being reduced and finding myself erring more and more towards powder coating as they do look good and it is hard finish.
Another finish which I'm presently trying is to have the components shot blast, followed immediately by 'electro zinc' spraying (a service the local shot blaster offers for all kinds of restoration projects such as old lamps, scooter chassis, car steel wheels etc.) It leaves a slightly rough light grey texture (very good key) and to paint directly over with a satin black, the proprietor swears by the finish and showed me a handrail on his property that they treated about ten years ago and even though the finish has been scuffed there is no rust.
Finally, also trying the Eastwood range of 'rust converter' and 'chassis black' rattle cans. The jury is out for now but fancy that despite the running around I will probably opt for delivering the parts to said powder coater, getting him to shot blast and powder coat together on his premises….
I tried to replicate the above a couple of years ago by shot blasting the radius arm links and immediately painting satin black rattle can without a primer, they very soon became rusty again (for apparently all paints are porous) and so have recently tried again - shot blast followed by POR metal ready and finally applied POR 15 - basically because I've not been a great fan of powder coating, also it is something one can do in the workshop and avoid a 50 mile round trip - twice of course!
Most restoration companies these days seem to opt for satin black powder coating, my local powder coaters fit rubber bungs to the drilled holes to avoid them being reduced and finding myself erring more and more towards powder coating as they do look good and it is hard finish.
Another finish which I'm presently trying is to have the components shot blast, followed immediately by 'electro zinc' spraying (a service the local shot blaster offers for all kinds of restoration projects such as old lamps, scooter chassis, car steel wheels etc.) It leaves a slightly rough light grey texture (very good key) and to paint directly over with a satin black, the proprietor swears by the finish and showed me a handrail on his property that they treated about ten years ago and even though the finish has been scuffed there is no rust.
Finally, also trying the Eastwood range of 'rust converter' and 'chassis black' rattle cans. The jury is out for now but fancy that despite the running around I will probably opt for delivering the parts to said powder coater, getting him to shot blast and powder coat together on his premises….
3.8 FHC Chassis no: 860403
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
DOM - 11th April 1962
Also
4.2 FHC Chassis no: 1E32173
DOM - 12th December 1965
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